Crap....Do I need an engine rebuild?
#1
Crap....Do I need an engine rebuild?
Well this hasn't been the best of weekends. On top of some currently un-resolvable issues with a couple motorcycle projects, and my phone taking a really bad fall, my 87 924S developed an engine knock.
After draining the oil, I stuck one of those extendable magnets into the oil pan's drain hole, and pulled out a few metal pieces.
I haven't fully sifted through the oil (which is currently in a couple of perfectly clean plastic shoe boxes), but I'm guessing that my rod bearings are shot.
Not sure what caused it, as the oil level seemed to be within spec, but given that I've had this car maybe one month, who knows.
I'm guessing that I'll be needing to do an engine rebuild unless you guys think something else would work.
An engine rebuild will be the most extensive thing I've taken on, but I've rebuilt a basket case motorcycle so hopefully it's not horribly more difficult.
After draining the oil, I stuck one of those extendable magnets into the oil pan's drain hole, and pulled out a few metal pieces.
I haven't fully sifted through the oil (which is currently in a couple of perfectly clean plastic shoe boxes), but I'm guessing that my rod bearings are shot.
Not sure what caused it, as the oil level seemed to be within spec, but given that I've had this car maybe one month, who knows.
I'm guessing that I'll be needing to do an engine rebuild unless you guys think something else would work.
An engine rebuild will be the most extensive thing I've taken on, but I've rebuilt a basket case motorcycle so hopefully it's not horribly more difficult.
#2
Rainman
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
how recently had the engine been running fine before you noticed the knock?
common "scary noise" is the hydraulic lifters draining of oil and making a hell of a racket on first "dry startup"...can take several minutes until they pump up fully and quiet down.
any chance you could take a video/sound recording of the suspect noise?
common "scary noise" is the hydraulic lifters draining of oil and making a hell of a racket on first "dry startup"...can take several minutes until they pump up fully and quiet down.
any chance you could take a video/sound recording of the suspect noise?
#3
The engine ran fine when I bought it a month ago, drove it 2.5 hours, and then have put around 250-300 miles on it.
Saturday night is when the noise started. I drove it about 15 miles home (mostly at 65 mph interstate speeds) then parked it. It made the noise the entire way home and it seemed to correspond to increasing/decreasing throttle, both with and without the clutch engaged.
I'd have to put the oil back in the car to start it back up, which I'm not going to be able to get around to do until maybe Friday. Even still, the metal bits that I pulled out of the oil pan's drain hole don't leave me with much hope (largest was around 1/4" square). I can try to get a pic of the metal bits sometime Friday as well (phone busted the same day as the car...)
Saturday night is when the noise started. I drove it about 15 miles home (mostly at 65 mph interstate speeds) then parked it. It made the noise the entire way home and it seemed to correspond to increasing/decreasing throttle, both with and without the clutch engaged.
I'd have to put the oil back in the car to start it back up, which I'm not going to be able to get around to do until maybe Friday. Even still, the metal bits that I pulled out of the oil pan's drain hole don't leave me with much hope (largest was around 1/4" square). I can try to get a pic of the metal bits sometime Friday as well (phone busted the same day as the car...)
#4
Rennlist Member
#5
Get a pair of electrically insulated gloves and pull the spark plug wires off one at a time to see which cylinder is making the noise. I would start with #2. If the noise goes away you will know which cylinder is at fault. Bearing material isn't magnetic, so you may have other issues going on
#6
That's good to know. I'll plan on getting some 20W-50 and filter then listen to see exactly where it's coming from. I'll also run the old oil through some coffee filters to see if anything comes through.
I suppose I can cut open the existing filter as well.
So if bearing material isn't magnetic, what would be? And what sort of things would I be looking for?
What exactly does pulling a plug while the car is running do other than prevent ignition in that cylinder?
I'm new to more in depth car maintenance/repair, so forgive me if my question seem somewhat stupid.
I suppose I can cut open the existing filter as well.
So if bearing material isn't magnetic, what would be? And what sort of things would I be looking for?
What exactly does pulling a plug while the car is running do other than prevent ignition in that cylinder?
I'm new to more in depth car maintenance/repair, so forgive me if my question seem somewhat stupid.
#7
Broken valve springs is the most common issue I have seen that would be magnetic. Pulling the spark plug wire takes the load off of the bearing, thus making the noise less noticable, if that is what is going on
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#10
If one of the rod bearings are bad, the spark plug removal test will narrow it down. If broken valve springs are at fault, an inspection camera through the 8mm plus in the cam tower may be able to determine which one(s) are broken. Although it may be easier to pull the tower to get up close and personal with the valves/springs
#11
Rennlist Member
As previously mentioned, unless you are wearing insulated gloves, do not attempt this while the engine is running.
#12
The plug wires are what I meant. I have some thick gloves t hat I've used for that purpose before.
I don't have an inspection camera though.
I should have time this weekend to get things looked at. I really appreciate the input
I don't have an inspection camera though.
I should have time this weekend to get things looked at. I really appreciate the input
#14
Long time, without a post. Money, a motorcycle wreck, and other things have delayed my progress.
But I finally got around to removing my engine to investigate my issue.
I have a shredded rod bearing on the front piston (closest to the belts). There's some damage to the crankshaft journal, though I'm not experienced enough to know whether or not I can get away with polishing or turning it, or if I should just but a new (used) crankshaft.
Either way, I need to remove the crankshaft. I haven't been able to find any good posts that describe this processes, even though it's obvious people have removed them.
Is there a particular thread here that describes the disassembly/reassembly with torque values process?
But I finally got around to removing my engine to investigate my issue.
I have a shredded rod bearing on the front piston (closest to the belts). There's some damage to the crankshaft journal, though I'm not experienced enough to know whether or not I can get away with polishing or turning it, or if I should just but a new (used) crankshaft.
Either way, I need to remove the crankshaft. I haven't been able to find any good posts that describe this processes, even though it's obvious people have removed them.
Is there a particular thread here that describes the disassembly/reassembly with torque values process?
#15
Bearing Shells & magnets
Bearing shells will cling to a magnet. I built several automation systems for Federal Mogul's, Blacksburg VA plant picking up rows of bearing shells off feed conveyors with a magnetic end of arm tooling attached to Adept robot, loading bearing trays that would be presented to engine assembly robots. Throughout the plant you see bearings traveling vertically on magnetized conveyors etc.
All of the bearings I just removed from an 83 944 cling to a magnet.
K
All of the bearings I just removed from an 83 944 cling to a magnet.
K