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suggestions for a 914 Spec

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Old 11-14-2011, 12:20 PM
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consolidated
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Default suggestions for a 914 Spec

A group of us in Texas are forming an small, inexpensive, grassroots series based on a 1.7/1.8L 914, it's a one track series for low stress fun. We're getting donors for around $1000-1500 so these are not "specimen" cars to say the least.

The spirit of the rules center around keeping the build and run costs very low and minimize set-up and R&D to make it accessible to those with less free time and/or technical knowledge.

Any suggestions public or PM'd are welcome, I don't know this platform. (I did try a search, but didn't come up with much, not sure if it's me or the search function.)

Thank you!

Here's where we're at:

1. Stock motor except for dual Weber conversion
2. Stock calipers, what are the go-to race pads for this car?
3. Weltmeister front anti-sway bar, no rear bar
4. Exhaust open downstream of stock headers, what are good slip-on options for HP and weight?
5. Shifter, I see short shifter kits anywhere from $75 to $600, which ones have a good cost/benefit ratio? We'll have side and back shift cars.
6. Suspension: we're testing 160# springs F/R, and don't want to go to adjustable dampers, is Bilstein the best option given this?
7. Minimum weight with driver will be 2100#
8. Direzzas on stock aluminum wheels, Rivieras typically.
9. Poly type bushing, suggestions?
10. No camber plates, alignment range only as stock car allows.
Old 11-14-2011, 01:48 PM
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Jay Gratton
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First, VERY cool class! But, any 914 that you are buying for $1000-$1500 is not something I would take on the track. I would be worried it would fold in half at the doors.

Matt Romanowski ran the hot pad on his 4 banger 914, but it might be over kill for the 1.7/1.8. I don't think you need a short shift kit, I would just replace the bushings.
Old 11-14-2011, 01:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Jay Gratton
But, any 914 that you are buying for $1000-$1500 is not something I would take on the track. I would be worried it would fold in half at the doors.
Having your car potentially crack in half is part of the excitement and thrill of the series. But, I'm hoping the cage will hold the car together, and we'll keep a welder on hot pit.

What is the "hot pad"?
Old 11-14-2011, 03:38 PM
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What series are you racing these in?
Old 11-14-2011, 09:05 PM
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It's unsanctioned, just a bunch of guys who all run at the same track together. Most of the guys run or have run other cars in PCA, SCCA and NASA.
Old 11-14-2011, 10:23 PM
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I'd be surprised if you find a safe car for $1500. Most likey nothing that I would take on the track. Plus, you're probably going to spend $6k plus to get these to be decent cars SAFE enought to track.

The best pads to get are the Raybestos from Porterfield. There are a bunch of options for exhuast, but that depends on what heat exhangers are on the car. You can get a Bursch, Thunderbird, or some of the Type I stuff fits. Shifters are going to vary depending on how worn the stock stuff is and what condition the linkage and transmission are in.

The Bilstein's would be fine. Koni's work too. The car has torsion bars in the front, so the 160 springs only make sense in the rear. What size torsion bars are you running?

Lots of people make bushings. You can get Weltmeister ones, Elephant Racing, CFR and some others. Depends on what you want.

So, if you do put Webers on it ($800) shocks ($550)), torsion bars ($350), springs ($125), sway bar ($400) bushings ($150), and brake pads ($250) you are in it for another $2,600. And you still have to do a cage and rebuild the brake calipers, change the brake lines, etc. So you'll have the nice $10,000 race car that is ready to break in half.

Or you could go Lemons racing...
Old 11-14-2011, 11:52 PM
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Gotta agree with the guys here, plus just sticking Webers on with a FI cam isn't that great...
Old 11-14-2011, 11:53 PM
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As much as I"m a Porsche guy, just do spec Miata, and I say that from experience.
Old 11-15-2011, 12:37 AM
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Originally Posted by Matt Romanowski

So, if you do put Webers on it ($800) shocks ($550)), torsion bars ($350), springs ($125), sway bar ($400) bushings ($150), and brake pads ($250) you are in it for another $2,600. And you still have to do a cage and rebuild the brake calipers, change the brake lines, etc. So you'll have the nice $10,000 race car that is ready to break in half.

Or you could go Lemons racing...
That sounds like less fun, hmm.

The donors are all ugly, but not rusted out being from Texas and Oklahoma.

We've been fielding a 914 in Lemon/Chump for about two years, it's what started this.

The cars are being assembled on a line, 6 at once, all friends with a borrowed bender, so far it's a good time, but yeah, a 1.6 Miata would have been easier but man we just like the 914.

Stock front torsion bar. Thanks for the information, regarding bushings, I figured on delrin, semi-solid to take as much play out as possible.
Old 11-15-2011, 08:52 AM
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I will be interested to see how this turns out. PLEASE keep us posted, could be a good time.
Old 11-15-2011, 11:03 AM
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Originally Posted by consolidated
The donors are all ugly, but not rusted out being from Texas and Oklahoma.

.
That just means that you haven't found the rust. Trust me, they are rusty. Even the nicest concours winner has rust.
Old 11-15-2011, 05:15 PM
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...any good cheater tricks are also welcomed

PS: still looking for donor (solid) car, please PM
Old 11-15-2011, 09:55 PM
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Drop a 3 liter in it!
Old 11-16-2011, 12:06 AM
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Originally Posted by Jay Gratton
Drop a 3 liter in it!
"discreet" cheater tricks that is
Old 11-16-2011, 08:14 AM
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Originally Posted by Jagbuff
"discreet" cheater tricks that is
Just leave the 1.7 badge on the rear!

This sounds like serious fun, I would be all over this if you guys were closer.


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