mikesgti

Just looking for advice on 916 style flares. I know you get what you pay for, but I just wanted feedback on others experiences with these installations.

Thanks Mike

1972 914
1973 914 2.0
1983 944

Joe R

I am so glad you posted this. I too am intersted in actually how do you put flares on. Either fiberglass or steel. I understand steel is MIG or TIG welded. but where do you cut the old fender panel to form a new wheel well.
I have heard there is nothing wrong with good fiberglass pieces because there are no two cars the same. Fiberglass can be shaped easier to fit and are plenty durable.

SS 6

FWIW, flares are in my future too, and I'd like to forward some wisdom given to me about flares. $300 for fiberglas vs $1600 for steel flares is a BIG jump, what do you get for your extra $1300? In a nutshell, a fellow 914 fanatic put it to me this way: if you want a totally "correct" concours garage queen, go for the steel flares. If you are building a "driver", the fiber's are good enough and won't crack if they're attached properly. If a flare is whacked, chances are you're going to have other damage as well to deal with; do you want to spend $150 on a replacement flare or $800?

Sounds like proper assembly is the key, and I'm also looking for wisdom on how to put fiber flares on properly.

One alternative: there are guys out there who've "stretched" their existing fenders by strategically cutting slits (think of stretch marks , dollying out the shapes, and welding in filler material. You usually get to keep the formed fender lip, which gives the flare a more "finished" look. Think of it this way: yer gonna be cuttin up yer fenders one way or another, if you're handy with body hammers and have access to a welder, this is the cheapest (and potentially most elegant) way. On the other hand, if you screw it up, so ya gotta buy some flares; back to where ya started.

Joe R

Hey I hear ya. No harm done to go screw up your fenders if you were gonna replace them anyway. P.O. has already slightly stretched the rear fenders. Looks like I might be able to get 15 x 7 Fuchs under there. So all I need is Wheels. Not to mention 5 lug hubs. Did I mention the rear wheels allready have a wiggle to them?

mikesgti

I have another question, what is the name of the bonding adhesive used to bond fiberglass fenders to metal body? I think this is the route I am taking.

Mueller

I think this is what John meant by "stretching" the fenders......




This is my old 914
The steel flared car would have a higher resale value, but we don't sell our cars do we??

918-S

When installing either steel or glas flares, use the rocker panels as an alignment point. I used flared rockers. I installed glas flares on my car. They were crap. If I had to do it over again I'd have used steel. The glas flares were ill fitting, and not similar from side to side, and full of voids under the gel coat. I used a Sun Kissed Heat lamp made for curing paint, and other catylist products. I baked every layer. I can see the cross weave through my black paint on hot days. You can't imagine how much that bothers me. Spend the money and get steel. my flares have been on for about 8 years now. I'm thinking after i strip the car and repaint it again. the glas should be more stable. But one fact that is undisputible, glas is never fully cured and will alway's move.

Irishdriver

My vote is for steel flares (M471) and I think AutoAtlanta has a deal on at the moment for a set.

You can get a set of the homologation papers for the 914/6 which give the exact dimensions for the flares.

Otherwise there is an old article in "up-Fixin" that shows how to flare the existing wheel arches for slightly larger wheels by using a baseball bat levering against the tyre !!!

JPIII

Here's a couple of pics of the hammer/dolly method. Sorry bout the pic quality.

Chris Campbell

[quote]Originally posted by Irishdriver:
<strong>I think AutoAtlanta has a deal on at the moment for a set.</strong><hr></blockquote>

Bwhahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahaha ha

(inhale)

hahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahaha ha

Sorry, couldn't help it.

"Cheap" steel flares from AA has been a running joke for years. A BUNCH of people climbed on their waiting list, and have been waiting, and waiting, and waiting...

IMHO, you pay your $1600 for real factory steel parts for a "concours-weenie" GT clone street car OR for a fun/daily-driver/race car I personally see no problem with f/g flares if done right. They are not only cheaper, they are also lighter, and easier to repair in the event of minor damage (as in a track car.)

YMMV with regard to AA, but nobody I know will go near them...

Cheers,

Irishdriver

OK, CJ,

you've obviously got more experience here than I have !!!

I never tried to buy flares from them.

I gave up on the rear trunk floor as it was always going to be available "in two months". (see other discussion)

I didn't generalise from my experience but this sounds from your laughter (with pause for air) as if it is common for other parts as well.

Isn't 914 life fun

356&914&912E

Keep an eye on this thread on the Pelican Parts 914 Technical board.

<a href="http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/vb/showthread.php?s=c3e7e3d5f15ff68477cd244ce7f0bab5&threadid=57782" target="_blank">http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/vb/showthread.php?s=c3e7e3d5f15ff68477cd244ce7f0bab5&threadid=57782</a>

It may go somewhere.

Ron

Zeke

Answers to 2 questions: Cut the fender out where the new fender departs from the original shape leaving an overlayp of 2-3" all around fiberglass to steel. Steel to steel can be butt welded and there you would scribe around the flared part and cut. Steel to steel can be lap welded or brazed also. 2nd ques: glass to steel attachment is started by grinding body area rough under new part and beyond 2-3". Lay resin soaked mat on car, place sanded backside of part on wet mat, secure w/ temporary screws and lay more wet mat on top of part lapping out onto ground metal. Roll out all air bubbles. Allow to cure and blend w/ grinder and sander. Finish w/ bondo sparingly. Use good bondo. Allow all to cure a week and prime w/ polyester primer coats sanding to perfection. Use a sealer over entire car and paint.

peter travnicek

Do a search on the Pelican 914 msg board. Recently (within the past 2 weeks) I read about a company in Germany (can't remember the name to save my life) who sells OEM steel flares for well under $1600. They are still no where nearly as cheap as the glass but not $1600 either... pt

George Helser

I don’t know about fenders but I have a comment on steel vs fiberglass rocker panels.
I bought a 3 year old 1971 914 in New York State. Salty stuff accumulated in the back of the rockers resulting in corrosion. The rockers had vertical cracks and the roof tended to squeak over bumps. (The chassis was flexing!) The common repair of the day was to replace the corroded rockers with inexpensive plastic ones which will not rust. I got a good price on stainless steel rockers around 1980 and riveted them in place. My roof squeaks went away telling me the chassis was stiffer.
My point is if you use fiberglass fender flares, will you compromise rigidity?

Regards,
George
In sunny AZ