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NEED MECHANIC IN NYC AREA - 1.7L w/FI PROBLEMS

Old 07-06-2001, 05:10 PM
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peter travnicek
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Post NEED MECHANIC IN NYC AREA - 1.7L w/FI PROBLEMS

Am at wits end w/my FI - gonna give it one last ditch effort but I cannot afford stalling in Tunnell traffic anymore - I simply don't have 3 feet (break, clutch, accel all at the same time)! I've gone throught the trouble shooting and am buying a used FI. HELP - my lil car is not a joy to drive!

Pete
ptravni@hotmail.com
Old 07-08-2001, 07:31 PM
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Joe Abbagnaro
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Hi Pete:

Try Deman Motorsports in Nyack NY.. http://www.demanmotorsport.com
Old 07-09-2001, 12:31 AM
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Roland Kunz
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Hallo

1.) learn the tip&toe technice. Use the toe to brake will you have the tip on the throttle.

2.) Check for vacuumleaks

3.) Check if you can rise the idle with the screw on the throttle body.

4,) renew the spark plugs, the breaker and check the wires.

5.) Check your valve lash

AND main importance give a better description of your cars condition and your problem. This will avoid guessing.

Grüsse
Old 07-09-2001, 01:14 PM
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peter travnicek
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Joe - I've taken it to Rick DeMann and he couldn't find the culprit. I've done a good deal of problem solving - here's the steps my father and I have taken: new plugs, new points/condensor/rotor, timed correct (although I'd be willing to pay a solid mechanic to double check the timing), all new vacuum hoses, new decel valve, new temp sensor 2 (it was bad), good cold start valve (wire was shorted but is now operating correct), thoroughly cleaned throttle box, new intake hoses & clamps (connects pipes to the air box), and welded the plenum (air box under air filter). Have used propane to test for leaks and am unable to find any. Have purchase a new diaphram (clamps onto the side of the distributor) - havn't yet installed it. The only things left to check or swap would be the pressure sensor (which I have yet to find a test for - although the ohms can be checked on the wiring), brain was swapped a couple years ago by a mechanic that I now believe didn't know what he was doing.

Now the symptoms my baby is having: Runs a very high idle when cold (1800-2200 RPM's). It does settle down to but does not stay at a steady rate. Runs great on the highway - very responsive (as responsive as a 1.7L gets) but when I get off the highway I get a very low idle and often stalls. It seems that no matter how much I adjust the idle screw it still stalls when hot. I'm purchasing a new FI off a 73 from a guy in Michigan for $70 (bargain) but I fear that I will have the same problems even after I start swapping parts.

I'm going to post this on the Pelican msg board as well. This thing is driving me crazy!!
Old 07-10-2001, 12:43 AM
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Roland Kunz
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Hello

Yes brows Pelican and Shoptalk.

Right now I wold focus on the air bypass valve. This unit helps on coldstart and gets heatet up by the engine plus from a electric cable. If your engine is warm then press the hose from the unit and watch if your idle will drop.

Or remove the hose and plug it with a big screw.

Other little thing is the trottle body. Check if the micro switch is syncronized to the flap.

I think at pfanders site is a closer description.

Grüsse
Old 07-26-2001, 04:21 PM
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peter travnicek
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Good news - the storm has passd and I didn't have to sell my left arm to fix the problem. As it turns out, the exhaust valves were mis-adjusted. 3 out of four had no gap! Now I don't have to use 3 feet @ stop lights! It actually idles like a real car! Many thanks for the aid.

pt


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