Cold Start Problem
11-23-2012, 08:30 AM
#1
Racer
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Cold Start Problem
After my recent rebuild my engine does not fire off like it did before. I have to crank for a few seconds. Starts warm like before. I suspect that the cold start valve is the problem. What is the best way to test? I replaced the thermal switch on the rebuild. Pumps are new.
Update: I have checked voltage to the CSV. Only 3.5volts when cranking. Both wire connections to the CSV are to ground with cold engine, which it should be, I think, as the TTS should be closed providing the ground. Very hard to access the TTV connections, any tricks for doing this without pulling every thing off?
Update: I have checked voltage to the CSV. Only 3.5volts when cranking. Both wire connections to the CSV are to ground with cold engine, which it should be, I think, as the TTS should be closed providing the ground. Very hard to access the TTV connections, any tricks for doing this without pulling every thing off?
Last edited by Handy930; 11-24-2012 at 02:06 PM. Reason: New information
12-02-2012, 08:20 AM
#2
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Are you referring to the cold start injector?
My understanding is that it's energized until the temp switch in the l/h cam chain cover gets warmed by the oil bath and opens the circuit.
I've had two injectors go bad: one wouldn't open and the other was dumping too much fuel into the intake and flooding the car.
If you need another injector, spend the $$$ and get a Bosch one. Forget the cheap knock-offs (ask me how I know).
Is you AAV wide open when cold?
My understanding is that it's energized until the temp switch in the l/h cam chain cover gets warmed by the oil bath and opens the circuit.
I've had two injectors go bad: one wouldn't open and the other was dumping too much fuel into the intake and flooding the car.
If you need another injector, spend the $$$ and get a Bosch one. Forget the cheap knock-offs (ask me how I know).
Is you AAV wide open when cold?
12-02-2012, 10:21 AM
#3
Burning Brakes
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Although new, are you certain the TTS is indeed closed when cold (thus providing ground continuity to the injector)? Slap an ohm meter on it to be sure.
I haven't yet had to troubleshoot mine, but it should be pretty straight forward. I suppose a person could apply 12V directly to the injector to force it to open (from a keyed-only starter hot circuit, or an external battery with someone to energize it when you crank the engine).
The TTS functions as Paul mentioned, though in it's initial cold stage it shuts off in a few seconds as the result of an internal 12V powered heating element that heats up a bimetalic strip. After than, the hot oil keeps it hot so it doesn't actuate when you're starting an already warm car.
That 3.5V when cranking seems odd....hmmm.
I haven't yet had to troubleshoot mine, but it should be pretty straight forward. I suppose a person could apply 12V directly to the injector to force it to open (from a keyed-only starter hot circuit, or an external battery with someone to energize it when you crank the engine).
The TTS functions as Paul mentioned, though in it's initial cold stage it shuts off in a few seconds as the result of an internal 12V powered heating element that heats up a bimetalic strip. After than, the hot oil keeps it hot so it doesn't actuate when you're starting an already warm car.
That 3.5V when cranking seems odd....hmmm.
12-02-2012, 06:37 PM
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The TTS functions as Paul mentioned, though in it's initial cold stage it shuts off in a few seconds as the result of an internal 12V powered heating element that heats up a bimetalic strip. After than, the hot oil keeps it hot so it doesn't actuate when you're starting an already warm car.
Another thing to check is that the correct TTS is installed. It's easy to mix it up with the others, especially after having the engine apart. They all open at different temperatures.
I'm thinking having 3.5 V present is roughly equivalent to having no voltage. Check the ground on that circuit.
12-04-2012, 02:47 PM
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Racer
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The low voltage is still unresolved. Could I have a bad contact in the solenoid for the starter? Also my AAV is not fully open when cold, although the temperature in the garage is in the 50's. Should it be fully open at this temp? I connected it to 12volts and it moved to being closed so I assume it is OK. I need to pull the CSV and test. I am going to be pulling the engine to replace the rear seal again and use the special tool from Pelican this time. I suspect that the seal spring may have popped out on the last installation. I will be able to access the TTS and check out the starter solenoid. After 33 years I guess one should expect some problems. BTW the ground from the CSV is good.
12-04-2012, 03:37 PM
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handy930....where are you located.....i'm in south florida.....our cold start valves don't operate here unless it gets cold.....any idea of the mixture setting and timing.....also the fuel pressure cold then hot....vinnie
12-04-2012, 03:45 PM
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The car is in Iowa. I haven't checked fuel pressures but will do so. The engine started and ran fine before the engine rebuild. Another problem in this State is that it is nearly impossible to find petro without alcohol blend. Makes me think that I could have a stuck CSV due to corrosion.
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12-04-2012, 06:57 PM
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Vinnie, "by the rollover valve" do you mean the aux air valve? Also, I have read on this forum that the main seal spring can pop out on installation. If you remember I screwed up and had the seal in backwards after the recent rebuild. I replaced it but just tapped the new one into place. Still have an oil leak but no where near as bad as the seal in backwards. I purchased the press in tool that I will use this time. One of the posts showed using grease in 4 points of the seal to help hold the spring in place. Any other ideas?
