sand_man

Well brothers and sisters...in case you haven't noticed, my post counter has been stopped on 929 (is that a Porsche model?) for several weeks now!!! I know it's selfish, but I've had to use great restraint (and mind altering hallucinogenic drugs) to keep myself from wasting post number 930 to help one of you out by answering a question and/or offering advice (I am a "specialist", don't you know). At any rate I've been saving my 930 post cheri to show off my humble engine rebuild. So it's finally time to remove the chastity belt! No, it's not as pretty or sooper-dooper as some of the others (the engine that is), but it's mine and I assembled it (with lots of advice from many of you). I'd love to have powder-coated and polished this and that, but in the end this is a daily driver and for me it's all about what's inside that counts. So here is Mr. Oily's face lift.

A list of parts:
-K27-7200 turbo
-B&B headers with heat
-B&B intercooler (polished by slow&rusty)
-ARP head studs
-ARP rod bolts
-Fabspeed "zork" tube
-Tial 46mm waste gate with .80 BAR spring
-Imagine Auto modified fuel head
-Electromotive XDi twin plug ignition
-Clewett spark plug wires
-Supertec 3.4L cylinders (fully finned and Nikasil plated) with custom fitted 98mm JE pistons, JE wrist pins, Goetz rings, 7.3:1 compression ratio
-SC cams
-New rocker shafts with RSR shaft seals
-New clutch: 3.0L spring centered disc, 3.3L pressure plate, 3.3L throw-out bearing
-Complete gasket and hardware set
-Complete bearing set including new number 8 nose bearing
-New oil lines (turbo supply and cam housing)
-New timing chains
-New chain ramps
-New manifold injector blocks
-Wevo semi-solid engine mounts
-Rennline RSR style stainless engine hanger
-Wevo shift coupler

A list of machine work (all done by Performance Developments):
-Crank case completely rebuilt: all oil galley plugs were drilled out, oil galley was extensively cleaned, piston squirters were tested, new case plugs were fitted, case halves were dowel fitted and tested for align-bore
-Twin plug heads (14MM spark plug hole)
-All engine parts were magnifluxed, zyglowed, thoroughly cleaned, machined (when necessary), cleaned again, oven dried, and bagged
-Performance Developments custom exhaust studs
-All valves, springs, retainers, etc were thoroughly inspected, tested, cleaned, rebuilt, and replaced as needed
-Performance Developments valve guides
-Rocker arms were built with new bushings (pin-fitted)
-Rods were rebuilt and balanced (all bushings were replaced and pin-fitted)
-Crank was rebuilt and balanced
-Cam tower oil plugs were drilled out, oil spray bars removed, cleaned, replaced, and new plugs fitted
-Injectors were cleaned, flow tested, and replaced as needed
-Oil pump was disassembled, cleaned, and rebuilt
-Chain tensioners were rebuilt
-Intermediate gear and shaft were rebuilt

The following products were used to seal the case:
-ThreeBond 1211 around number 8 (a thin skim coat on the case surfaces)
-ThreeBond 1104 on the case halves (no sealant on the internal bearing webs)
-ThreeBond 1104 on the cylinder head to cam tower joint
-Dow Corning 111 silicone lubricant/sealant on all o-rings
-Loctite 574 on all paper gaskets (a very thin coat spread evenly on both sides of the gasket)
-Curil-T around the main seal (very thin coat) and around the cylinder base gaskets

After dealing with some troubles that I encountered with the magnetic crank sensor for the ignition, the engine fired up on the first try! Yes it's loud, but the sound is far too addicting for me to muffle. So far there aren't any leaks and the Supertec cylinders are holding up fine. Time will tell. The car is very responsive and very smooth. I'm still in the break-in period, so I'm trying to avoid too much boost. I'll take it easy (stay under 5,000 RPMs) for the next 500 miles or so. I have no idea what the HP is and I don't really care...I'm after reliability. I know the car isn't a 500WHP EFI monster, but that was never my goal. As for the AC removal, I'm thinking that I might leave AC out for good! The engine compartment is soooo nice and clean without these bits in there.

The guts:



Ps&Cs on:



Cam timing:



Heads:


Performance Developments exhaust studs:


Fuel stuff being rebuilt:

Electromotive coils:


Finished engine:

Jastx

Impressive job! Go for post 931 with more pics!

125shifter

Congratulations!!! Rebuild looks nice and the parts list looks like it was done right.

Keep these type posts coming so I'm shamed into finishing my rebuild (electrical is all that's left)

slownrusty

Jeff - I was wondering where the heck you went? I am very happy to hear its all done and the rebuild list is impressive...gives me motivation when I venture down this road. Congrats on the rebuild and I am sure the car must feel like a fire-cracker.

Does it feel any different at all, I know you are still breaking it in?

If you do not mind me asking....the total cost??

Yasin

sand_man

Thanks guys! Aw shux! Yes it feels completely different. It was running sooo poorly when I parked it to start this journey. More than ever it has that Jeckyl and Hyde feel! It's soooo very easy to drive around town, but the minute the hammer goes down, things happen VERY quickly! It's much smoother than I ever remember it being. It runs very cool, has wonderful oil pressure, and starts as soon as the key is touched. I'm very pleased. As for cost, I've been afraid to add it all up, but I've got to be in the 12 to 15 large range.

jimculp

Those heads are purdy! Did you stay with the stock cams? Did you do a leakdown?

Congratulations.

sand_man

Thanks! SC cams. No, I didn't do a leak down test. I figured I'd get the rings to seat properly and then maybe in the next 1500-3000 miles perform a hot leak down test.

jimculp

Whoops missed that- cheers.

NSXTC

Very nice. Esp. like the twin plug head job...wait...that didn't come out right...wait...either did that...oh nevermind.

I noticed you are using a really long oil line from your case to the stat. I initially did this, but was really not a clean look and it ran under the headers and got all sorts of heat. I ended up replacing the flexible oil line with a hard cross over line which goes under the trans and straight to the stat. It was a direct bolt on from Porsche. You'll need two parts...a cross member that goes under the trans and exiting the oil cooler side, and another which connects from the cross member to the thermostat. I'll get part #s if you need.

sand_man

Thanks! Yeah...I hate that flexible line! It was installed by the previous owner when the B&B headers went on. Mine runs next to where the heater boxes attach to the cockpit, then by the engine oil cooler, and then up to the t-stat. Maybe I'll add that to my list. It's just really hard to remove from the case because of the close proxemity to the oil return tubes.

NSXTC

An open oil wrench did the trick for me when I replaced mine. Oil return tube did not get in the way of the wrench.

Here's the parts:

From pap-parts.com

http://pap-parts.com/prodinfo.asp?nu...107%20739%2010

http://pap-parts.com/prodinfo.asp?nu...107%20729%2010

sand_man

THAT'S GREAT! Thanks!

nathanUK '81 930 G50

I second that, I too am not a fan of the braided

My car had one on when I bought it, I then sold the one that came with my new GHL headers as a buddy needed it.

goldminer

Why did you stay with a 0.8 boost spring? Is that just until it's run in?

sand_man

It's my daily driver. I'm not a street racer. I've heard (and witnessed) more cons against heavier springs than for. Cheap HP maybe...but in the end just how cheap is it really?