Help - new to 911's and going to look at a 1971
01-23-2017, 02:57 PM
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Help - new to 911's and going to look at a 1971
All – I have run across an opportunity to purchase a 1971 911, not sure if it is a T, E or S. The owner passed away who was a friend of afriend and I am being given the opportunity to review the vehicle if I aminterested. I am going to look at the vehicle tomorrow evening. I am lead tobelieve that it is in excellent condition, not Concours quality, but maybe alevel or 2 below, much better than just a driver.
I know nothing of substance about 911’s, I own a 944 Turboand would love to add a 911 to the stable, and understand the high value ofthese vehicles at this time in the marketplace. I would appreciate some sort ofa checklist or advice of things to look for when evaluating this type ofvehicle. I feel like I am going in blind and would love some help. I waspresented with this opportunity yesterday. Thanks in advance for any help.
I know nothing of substance about 911’s, I own a 944 Turboand would love to add a 911 to the stable, and understand the high value ofthese vehicles at this time in the marketplace. I would appreciate some sort ofa checklist or advice of things to look for when evaluating this type ofvehicle. I feel like I am going in blind and would love some help. I waspresented with this opportunity yesterday. Thanks in advance for any help.
Last edited by MC Luc; 01-23-2017 at 03:15 PM.
01-23-2017, 09:55 PM
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That's not a lot of time to get up to speed. Probably just the basics.
If it is a T, it should have carburetors. If an E or an S, mechanical fuel injection, although it could have been converted to carbs.
Rust: Two battery boxes in the front trunk, one on each side. When a battery fails, the acid gets down into the front pan around the fuel tank, and can rust it out badly. Inspect the inside of the trunk carefully. Underneath, look for rust where the torsion bars mount, near the front.
Check the rockers, open the doors and check for rust on the lock post panels. Dirt/water/salt gets thrown forward by the rear wheels, and rust can start easily in these areas. Lots of other places for rust, but these are the typical ones.
Get the VIN from the front trunk. Stamped on a raised panel on the body between the fuel tank and the trap door, and an aluminum plate on the front hood latch panel. Also the A pillar and a sticker on the drivers door jamb.
Paint code is on a metal plate on the front door post, drivers side. That will help determine if the paint color is original.
Check the engine type. A 2.2L E is 911/01, an S is 911/02, and a T is a 911/07. It is stamped on a horizontal surface of the engine case to the right of the fan. Nearby will be the serial number on a vertical surface, should be 7 digits, starts with a 6.
If the car is being presented as all original (and priced that way), you'll want an expert to check it out. Take photos and post them and the serial numbers here for validation.
Does it run?
Mark
If it is a T, it should have carburetors. If an E or an S, mechanical fuel injection, although it could have been converted to carbs.
Rust: Two battery boxes in the front trunk, one on each side. When a battery fails, the acid gets down into the front pan around the fuel tank, and can rust it out badly. Inspect the inside of the trunk carefully. Underneath, look for rust where the torsion bars mount, near the front.
Check the rockers, open the doors and check for rust on the lock post panels. Dirt/water/salt gets thrown forward by the rear wheels, and rust can start easily in these areas. Lots of other places for rust, but these are the typical ones.
Get the VIN from the front trunk. Stamped on a raised panel on the body between the fuel tank and the trap door, and an aluminum plate on the front hood latch panel. Also the A pillar and a sticker on the drivers door jamb.
Paint code is on a metal plate on the front door post, drivers side. That will help determine if the paint color is original.
Check the engine type. A 2.2L E is 911/01, an S is 911/02, and a T is a 911/07. It is stamped on a horizontal surface of the engine case to the right of the fan. Nearby will be the serial number on a vertical surface, should be 7 digits, starts with a 6.
If the car is being presented as all original (and priced that way), you'll want an expert to check it out. Take photos and post them and the serial numbers here for validation.
Does it run?
Mark
01-23-2017, 11:15 PM
#4
find the VIN in the front trunk & post it here
there should be a list or guide on here somewhere of what to look for
there are some 'secret' numbers scattered around in various places too - just so you know
if it is a T in decent shape, it is worth X; if an E then 2X; if an S then 4X maybe
do not let anybody else know exactly where the car is to prevent it from being bought out from under you
next, let's suppose the seller has no idea of ts worth -- you then have a moral question to ask yourself
Good Luck!
there should be a list or guide on here somewhere of what to look for
there are some 'secret' numbers scattered around in various places too - just so you know
if it is a T in decent shape, it is worth X; if an E then 2X; if an S then 4X maybe
do not let anybody else know exactly where the car is to prevent it from being bought out from under you
next, let's suppose the seller has no idea of ts worth -- you then have a moral question to ask yourself
Good Luck!
