ricster1965

Hi Guys,

redoing my 50k 86 motor over the winter because of the valve guides, will rebuild the bottom while its out I think as well and put stronger rod bolts in.


motor out



here she is before pulling the motor

Spyerx

Your valve guides were toast after only 50k miles? Sounds like a fun winter project!

ricster1965

Yes, they were. Remember we are looking at a 31 year old engine so age has a factor as well. I always serviced it with the best oil etc, so I am contemplating whether to rebuild the bottom end but I think that if you are already there its just cheap insurance.

Bford100

doing same to my 55K 1986 Targa. PM me lots of interesting thoughts and ideas I can share with you!

ricster1965

what were you thinking or wanting to share ?

ric

r911

did the the best oil etc, have adequate levels of ZDDP?

theiceman

Valve Guides are a known weakness on the 3.2 so good for you . However there is no way i would split the case on a 50K motor. Dont get me wrong that is just my opinion and good for you. Bottom end on these cars are solid.
Your engine looks really clean so should be a fun project. Id definitely think carefully about head studs too. Although it is more of a weakness of the SC I would get Steve W's opinion on changing those.

rusnak

I'm curious as to why stronger rod bolts are needed. I'd want to leave the stock crank and bearings alone for as long as it's practical. You get into a sort of guessing game with oversize or off-set bearings and pins, etc etc in order to stay stock, and not +1 etc. And I'd also confirm valve guide wear. If they turn out to be not worn, I'd put it all back and not touch them.

ricster1965

I ended up having my good friend Kevin whos dad worked for the Porsche factory race teams in the 60's and 70's do the engine. So he suggested the ARP rod bolts as the factory rod bolts were weak and if you over rev it passed 6800 rpm he said you could break it. He will replace the head studs with the factory steel ones and he send out all the brackets and bolts and nuts to re-anodized. He will balance everything out including the flywheel and clutch pressure plate. He said this motor will be smoother and will be better than the factory ever did it.

r911

I agree re the ARP rod bolts - good insurance. It will be better balanced, but you may not be able to ell (as the boxer design solves some imbalance issues).

Ask him about Ti valve stem keepers.

It will be a fun motor!

ricster1965

i won't be able to ell? Yes TI keepers for sure.

ricster1965

yes always motule 15w-50 race oil. High zddp count.

ricster1965

you were right everything in spec but felt good insurance. Though piston number 2 had a cracked oil control ring. So peace of mind I guess for me.

sithot

Bruce Anderson tackled the rod bolt issue years ago. Here's some discussion from
2002.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsc...rera-3-2s.html

I'll everybody remembers or knew Bruce?

ricster1965

We noticed the timing from the factory was slightly off. This will be corrected of course.