My Coilover rear shocks and my 930 brakes
#31
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Solomon Machine came through for me big time. Could not be happier with the chromoly
I'll go back and have him make me some more at 2.5mm and 5mm once everything else is fab'd up.
EDIT: Looks like I forgot to tell you what I had Solomon do for me. I took a chunk of chromoly tubing to a friend of mine who turned it into 10mm wide w/14mm ID spacers for the steering knuckle....basically it will be the bump-steer-adjustment spacers that go between the steering arms and the Heim joint.
I'll go back and have him make me some more at 2.5mm and 5mm once everything else is fab'd up.
EDIT: Looks like I forgot to tell you what I had Solomon do for me. I took a chunk of chromoly tubing to a friend of mine who turned it into 10mm wide w/14mm ID spacers for the steering knuckle....basically it will be the bump-steer-adjustment spacers that go between the steering arms and the Heim joint.
#34
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Me. I had 54" to work with and built the box in place. Did all the dimensions in my head and had Home Depot do most of the cutting. Used 3/4" double sided plywood for the drawer bottoms and the box top and sides. Sliders came from Rockler. There are something like 25 sets of Snap On, 3 sets of Cornwell, 1 set of Williams, and a set of Craftsman sockets in the top drawer. Maybe 15 SO ratchets. The pawn shop by my office can set their clocks by my pay days.
Last edited by Amber Gramps; 02-02-2017 at 09:25 PM.
#36
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#37
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Thread Starter
OK, I couldn't stand it any longer and went back and had more spacers made. Now I've got 10mm, 5mm, and 2.5mm spacers for fine bump-steer adjustment. Also talked to my buddy at Real Plating last night and he's ready and willing to plate them in whatever I want.....and he's the guy that has real cad. Heck, he could chrome them for all I care.
http://realplating.com/
EDIT: Just emailed with Clint at Rebel S Racing and ordered a pair of his low profile wipers.
http://realplating.com/
EDIT: Just emailed with Clint at Rebel S Racing and ordered a pair of his low profile wipers.
#38
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The easy stuff is done. Now to let my body recover and regroup for a bit while I plan my next move. I think the first thing to do is to grind off all the brackets then the excess nub at the bottom so I can get the spindle off.
As of right now I think I'm raising the spindles 27mm as that is plenty close for my comfort level.
As of right now I think I'm raising the spindles 27mm as that is plenty close for my comfort level.
#39
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The spindle pressed off without incident....rather uneventful. Was expecting to have to max out the press and I hardly had to use any force at all.
Made a cool sleeve cut at 10 degrees to match the angle of the spindle.
Unfortunately I broke both of my cutting bits trying to change the angle of the bore. I think it was bad harmonics so I'm going to beef up the jig.
.....and for some reason my office server is telling me it's out of space so I'll have to figure out a different way to post....maybe I will just post from my phone.
Made a cool sleeve cut at 10 degrees to match the angle of the spindle.
Unfortunately I broke both of my cutting bits trying to change the angle of the bore. I think it was bad harmonics so I'm going to beef up the jig.
.....and for some reason my office server is telling me it's out of space so I'll have to figure out a different way to post....maybe I will just post from my phone.
#41
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Picked up my 2" adjustable boring head today and somehow posted all about it in RLOT.. No bad harmonics with the jig welded up to monster plate steel and bolted directly to the mill deck. Did some scratch passes to make sure I was at 50mm and went at it.
Pretty happy with the results.
Pretty happy with the results.
#42
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Let's see how bad I can confuse the issue..
My welding fixture is going to start out in two parts....One for the spindles and one for the strut tubes. Once each are parallel then I'll finalize the spindle height and angle then I'll weld the two parts together. Makes sense?
My welding fixture is going to start out in two parts....One for the spindles and one for the strut tubes. Once each are parallel then I'll finalize the spindle height and angle then I'll weld the two parts together. Makes sense?
#43
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Both halves of the fixture are now complete.
The lower half uses a milled recess the calipers ride on and the upper fixture has parallel channels for the struts to sit in.
Crazy, no?
And yes, I will be elongating the holes the spindles are mounted in so they are even. Right now they are parallel, but not even.
The lower half uses a milled recess the calipers ride on and the upper fixture has parallel channels for the struts to sit in.
Crazy, no?
And yes, I will be elongating the holes the spindles are mounted in so they are even. Right now they are parallel, but not even.
#44
Rennlist Member
Where you looking to be final ride height?
#45
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I've always been somewhere in the 24-3/8" front arch range and a tad below that in the back. I've got a set of 9's for the back and will move my 7's up front so ride height will likely start out quite a bit higher just to be safe. Fortunately I've got my own string jig for 4 wheel alignment and Longacre camber plates so making changes doesn't cost me anything. There are so many variables even in the widths of tires that are supposed to have the same aspect ratio that no matter how much I'd like to be able to tell you exactly what my ride height, camber, toe, and caster numbers will be, I would just be BSing you. I won't know until it's all together and I've been up the canyon several times. I am going to leave the camber plates bolted down where they were before until after everything is back on and I do my initial alignment.