While replacing chain tensioner, what else should be done
#1
While replacing chain tensioner, what else should be done
i am about to have my mechanic upgrade the chain tensioner on my 1982 SC. It is very original with 61k miles on it. While doing this work are there any other repairs or service items I should do, while I am at it??
#3
Addict
If this is an engine out operation, I'd take care of the "triangle of death" oil seals and maybe even the oil return tubes and take a good look at the clutch. May be an opportune time to change out the sound pad too.
#5
Addict
LOL. OK, I've seen some crazy things. I've not ventured into that pool so I didn't know. Can I replace my chain ramps with my 3.2L still in the car? At 83,000 miles when my engine is at idle there is a sound that to my ear is the chain. It doesn't sound bad, it just sounds like a chain that isn't tight.
#6
Team Owner
Yes you can Doug quite easily. But it usually isnt the ramps causing it. Usually tensioners at maximum travel and. Chain slop.
May need new chains. Link chains can be done in the car with new tensioners and ramps and can retime cams
Continuous chain is total overhaul.
May need new chains. Link chains can be done in the car with new tensioners and ramps and can retime cams
Continuous chain is total overhaul.
#7
Addict
OK. It's only at idle when I hear it when there is no pressure on the tensioners. If my chains were stretched I doubt I'd have the strongest 3,2 to have ever been strapped into the dyno at Bisimoto. For all I know I'm hearing a rattle in the shift linkage also very common at idle. Who knows?
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#8
While there will certainly be some resistance to this reply, at only 61,000 miles on the engine, there is no reason to change anything, especially if you are paying a mechanic to do it. The tensioners on later SC engines do not suffer the failures of the earlier 911 tensioners, and these engines commonly get 200,000 miles before needing such service. And, if you are worried, the existing tensioners can be rebuilt. That written, changing to the oil-fed tensioners that debuted in the '84 Carrera is certainly the right direction. The job is actually pretty easy to do, even with the engine in the car. Details escape me without reviewing my notes, but it may be you will need the "spacers" for the idler sprocket arms to be compatible with the new tensioners. Or, you can replace the idler arms to the newer version. Details upon request.
#9
Team Owner
While there will certainly be some resistance to this reply, at only 61,000 miles on the engine, there is no reason to change anything, especially if you are paying a mechanic to do it. The tensioners on later SC engines do not suffer the failures of the earlier 911 tensioners, and these engines commonly get 200,000 miles before needing such service. And, if you are worried, the existing tensioners can be rebuilt. That written, changing to the oil-fed tensioners that debuted in the '84 Carrera is certainly the right direction. The job is actually pretty easy to do, even with the engine in the car. Details escape me without reviewing my notes, but it may be you will need the "spacers" for the idler sprocket arms to be compatible with the new tensioners. Or, you can replace the idler arms to the newer version. Details upon request.
During my recent rebuild however I did put wider idler arms in and also dropped in a spacer inside the tensioner to prevent total collapse. Its all pretty easy to do providing your back can take the strain of the bending over
#10
I don't have any resistance to dlg993's reply, but let me offer some inductance: since you are already in there, consider the incremental cost in adding the pressure-fed tensioners, as vs. doing it all over again at a later time.
#11
Team Owner
OK. It's only at idle when I hear it when there is no pressure on the tensioners. If my chains were stretched I doubt I'd have the strongest 3,2 to have ever been strapped into the dyno at Bisimoto. For all I know I'm hearing a rattle in the shift linkage also very common at idle. Who knows?