911sc: Potential Fire Hazard??
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911sc: Potential Fire Hazard??
Hoping to get some insight, and possibly debunk a statement made by a mechanic whom I trust very greatly.
Some may know that I just purchased my 79 911sc about a month ago. The car sat outdoors for about 4 years, without being started prior to me adopting it. Said mechanic has told me that replacing ALL of the fuel feed and return, pressure lines is EXTERMELY necessary, as the rubber is most likely dry-rotted. He says that once I start driving the car(haven't taken it out on the road yet), and the motor gets up to temp for a while, that the fuel lines very well may rupture, and that I would have a fire on my hands. The motor has been started and run at idle a few times already after addressing my fuel deliver problem..
This scares me to death. Is it likely, does it happen often to these older air-cooled cars?
Some may know that I just purchased my 79 911sc about a month ago. The car sat outdoors for about 4 years, without being started prior to me adopting it. Said mechanic has told me that replacing ALL of the fuel feed and return, pressure lines is EXTERMELY necessary, as the rubber is most likely dry-rotted. He says that once I start driving the car(haven't taken it out on the road yet), and the motor gets up to temp for a while, that the fuel lines very well may rupture, and that I would have a fire on my hands. The motor has been started and run at idle a few times already after addressing my fuel deliver problem..
This scares me to death. Is it likely, does it happen often to these older air-cooled cars?
#2
I agree with your mechanic. Although I don't know the SCs as well, I can tell you that even well-maintained 30+ year old cars suffer from rubber degradation.
There's probably a list of must do 'new old car' maintenance items for your car if you search. Like flushing the brake fluid, replacing oil and gas lines, etc.
There's probably a list of must do 'new old car' maintenance items for your car if you search. Like flushing the brake fluid, replacing oil and gas lines, etc.
#3
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Seems like stories of old VWs catching on fire popped up more than just "rarely." It's not a design flaw (don't think Pinto ), but the fact that the air-cooled engines have a toasty engine bay, and these cars' cult status mean many are still on the road compared to, say, a Corolla or Civic of its day. Heat + Age means rubber must be replaced...must! If you're unsure of whether it has ever been done, then being prudent is being smart.
Edward
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#5
YES, replacing ALL of the fuel feed and return, pressure lines is EXTREMELY necessary, as the rubber is most likely in a condition that resembles dry-rot - caused by old age and by EtOH fuels.
Rubber does not last forever (as you will discover when you look at your suspension bushings) and modern fuels accelerate the rate of damage. You must use hose that is rated for the correct pressure and for EtOH mixes.
Now, how old are your tires???
Rubber does not last forever (as you will discover when you look at your suspension bushings) and modern fuels accelerate the rate of damage. You must use hose that is rated for the correct pressure and for EtOH mixes.
Now, how old are your tires???
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I appreciate all of the feedback!! Looks like I will be getting them all replaced accordingly. Has anyone done this job themselves? I would like to, however, I'm assuming it's probably a PITA to get them through that tunnel in the center of the floor pan. Any idea of the amount of work?
Tires are surprisingly good, for now. The car will be seeing some new rubber come fall though.
Tires are surprisingly good, for now. The car will be seeing some new rubber come fall though.
#7
an SC should have quality plastic lines in the tunnel; IIRC only one MY has lines in the tunnel that fail and it is a middie, not an SC but check to be certain
you cannot go by how the tires look, or how much tread they have; you must look at the date code on the sidewall and it MUST be < 6 years old
you cannot go by how the tires look, or how much tread they have; you must look at the date code on the sidewall and it MUST be < 6 years old
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To save some money in the fuel lines, you could do what I did.
The hoses in my '85 was "all" loose in the ends and I was also very worried
about a fuel leak and fire.
Removed all lines and measured the length of hose and separated the ends.
Then a hydraulic shop was able to clamp new correct rubber hose to existing
ends. This has worked for years now in my '85.
The hoses in my '85 was "all" loose in the ends and I was also very worried
about a fuel leak and fire.
Removed all lines and measured the length of hose and separated the ends.
Then a hydraulic shop was able to clamp new correct rubber hose to existing
ends. This has worked for years now in my '85.
#9
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I would go ahead and have the fuel lines replaced, especially if they are original.
Also, the original hoses will probably deteriorate faster from the ethanol in today's fuel.
Are you also having the gas tank cleaned out as well as flushing the old brake fluid and replacing the brake hoses if needed?
Good luck !
Also, the original hoses will probably deteriorate faster from the ethanol in today's fuel.
Are you also having the gas tank cleaned out as well as flushing the old brake fluid and replacing the brake hoses if needed?
Good luck !
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I would go ahead and have the fuel lines replaced, especially if they are original.
Also, the original hoses will probably deteriorate faster from the ethanol in today's fuel.
Are you also having the gas tank cleaned out as well as flushing the old brake fluid and replacing the brake hoses if needed?
Good luck !
Also, the original hoses will probably deteriorate faster from the ethanol in today's fuel.
Are you also having the gas tank cleaned out as well as flushing the old brake fluid and replacing the brake hoses if needed?
Good luck !
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Appreciate the reiteration, and yes I am aware of this. Tires were put on fresh before the P/O stopped driving the car for 4 years. But, like I said, regardless the tires are getting replaced come fall. And who knows if I'll even be driving it by then..
#12
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I did drain the gas tank, along with a new fuel pump and all hoses(breathers too), fuel tank strainer/plug, and fuel filter. As I said, I have not driven the car yet. Still rebuilding my pedal cluster, that was completely rusted/seized, due to either a leak in the windshield liner, OR what I'm starting to think may actually be a leaking master cylinder. All break lines are new, however, the MC looks pretty rough and corroded, so the brake system in its entirety will be addressed in due time.
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This is also interesting.... Have you ever looked at the lines before, given them a little check-up?
Another thing to factor in is the climate the car has been in. I live in CT, so in my case, the car has experienced the extremes of all 4 seasons, which I'm sure greatly effects the rubber.
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The polyamid fuel lines in the tunnel should be fine. Same with those in the engine compartment. They have a rubber outer cover, but on the inside they are plastic.
The lines from the fuel pump to the tunnel line, as well as the fuel return from the tunnel line to the fuel tank are rubber. Those would be good candidates to replace.
If you want more piece of mind, you could replace everything. I think the tunnel is going to be really tough to replace with the engine and steering rack in the way, but it is supposedly doable. At a minimum, I think you need to remove the transmission support.
Fuel lines in the engine bay (from the accumulator and the fuel filter) are NLA. The go-to guy for fuel lines is Len Cummings (BoxsterGT) over on Pelican. He makes new ones, email him at len dot cummings at verizon dot net. He used to own a shop, now retired so not sure how responsive he will be. But he still makes the fuel lines. Search over there for lots of threads on this.
Mark
The lines from the fuel pump to the tunnel line, as well as the fuel return from the tunnel line to the fuel tank are rubber. Those would be good candidates to replace.
If you want more piece of mind, you could replace everything. I think the tunnel is going to be really tough to replace with the engine and steering rack in the way, but it is supposedly doable. At a minimum, I think you need to remove the transmission support.
Fuel lines in the engine bay (from the accumulator and the fuel filter) are NLA. The go-to guy for fuel lines is Len Cummings (BoxsterGT) over on Pelican. He makes new ones, email him at len dot cummings at verizon dot net. He used to own a shop, now retired so not sure how responsive he will be. But he still makes the fuel lines. Search over there for lots of threads on this.
Mark