GTgears

This. I will be buying his kit for 1974 shortly.

I was joking about the LSD. This car doesn't need one.

Spyerx

Good on the links to the fuel lines.

Are those 3 (the straight, J, and T) the only rubber lines for the fuel system? Are there more up front?

On that diff... "Need" is a relative term :-)

Techno Duck

I used the lines from Griffiths, they are a very nicely done part. I was hesitant to buy from the guy on Pelican, i've seen a few threads with people trying to get a hold of him.

The only other rubber hose in the engine bay is the fuel return hose. Pretty sure this is the part # 911 356 085 05

Spyerx

Cool great info guys - Digging in the PET now to order a few more bits.
Then we'll just do any stuff he finds as needed

Techno Duck

It may not be a bad idea to inspect the rubber lines that are the return / feed from the fuel tank / pump also. With the low mileage on your car they may not be too bad, on my '88 with 165k on the clock they were toast. I replaced the fuel pump and after disturbing the lines just a little they started leaking.

These fuel lines run through the center tunnel and connect to the hardlines by the transmission. The rubber section is only at the front of the car and can be replaced by just cutting them off and replacing with new fuel hose... however if you have the engine and transmission out it will be much easier to snake a new fuel line through the tunnel if you arent keen on splicing a new section of hose on with clamps.

This thread explains what i am talking about with pictures

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsc...81-911-sc.html

This was my pressure line coming off the pump, it developed two pin hole leaks after i swapped the pump out..



This was my jumper hose that goes between the two fuel rails between the intake..



This was the J shaped hose that was mentioned previously, check the date stamp.. original to the car

Spyerx

Nice. Thank you. A few months back I was chasing some fuel odor (only on a fill up and full tank) so i focused on the breather hoses in the frunk and the rubber hose between the tank and filler neck. When I pulled off that hose between the tank and filler neck (major PITA!) and squeezed it it looked identical to those pipes above. Replaced and no more fuel odor on full takes (or at all).

I'm going to order all the engine lines + return. I'll inspect the front of car lines, the option with clamps looks interesting.

Spyerx

OK, thought you guys might be interested in this list, it's gotten kinda big LOL. Im stopping here until motor is out. But this is basically: clutch, fuel lines, vacuum lines, valve cover gaskets, triangle of "death", and a few other 'bits'.

The big unknowns are: condition of chain tensioners, we will pull covers and inspect, and any other seepage that might be there. Car doesn't leak and bottom is dry but you know... Oh and making sure head studs are good.

All parts are ordered from Sunset porsche, RM European, or Pelican.

—Replace clutch: Slave cylinder line: 91142317703, clutch Kit (disc, pressure plate, release bearing): 95011691101, Pressure plate bolts: 90006704503 x9, Spring washer N0122418 x9, , Slave cylinder: 95011623712, Pilot bearing: 93110211102, Clutch fork: 99711608690, Flywheel bolts: 93010220600 x9, Rear main seal: 99911342641, Guide tube: 95011681306, Guide tube screws: 99927007001 x2, Flywheel: 93010203303, Ring Gear: 95011614305, Fork shaft / parts: 101518090
—Adjust shifter action (replace bushings/orings 91142413901 #10, 95042422403 #2, 99970192340 #8, 99970101250 #4
ORDERED), check bushings and adjustment / coupler - little stiff going to 5th

ENGINE
—Adjust valves, new valve cover gaskets kit 93010590201 #25,27,28,29 Page 103-05
—Inspect head studs and ensure good
—Replace timing box gaskets (93010519204 & 93010519103 #11,12 Page 103-05)
—Getting some rattle at about 2k or below, when cold - check timing chain tensioners & chain guides? (Tensioners: 93010505803 ORing: 99970169040 Guide: 91110522206 x2 NOT ORDERED)
—Replace oil and breather hoses (91110723300 Oil S line104-00 #22, 93020738601 Breather hose #26, 93020738501 Breather Hose#28, Connector #29 93011026704)
—Replace other accessible gaskets and seals as needed
—Inspect front main seal
—Replace fuel lines in engine bay
—Straight Line: 93011041103 # 19
—J curved Line: 93011050901 #11
—T Line: 93011059505 #9
—Fuel Return Line: 91135608505 #2
—Replace seals / gaskets on top of motor "Triangle of Death":
—Thermostat O-Ring: 99970105340 #36
—Temp switch sealing ring: 90012300730 #38
—Oval Breather gasket: 93010779102 #33
—Oil Pressure Switch: 91160623000 #45
—Oil Pressure Switch Sealing Ring: N0138325 / 90012314030 #41
—Oil cooler Sealing Rings:
—99970417250 #2 x2
—99970417350 #3 x1
—Crank speed / pulse sensor x2: 91160621501
—Replace other rubber hoses / pipes / vacuum lines as needed
VACUUM LINES
Page 107-00
—O-ring bottom of throttle body #19: 99970112440
—Vacuum hose on throttle body U shape #14: 91111095300
—4x9 Vacuum hose throttle body to air valve #30: 99923901040 830mm
—Vacuum hose throttle body to air valve #28: 93020723601
—Rubber sleeve check valve connection at air valve #34: 93020724301
—Hose valve to check valve #38: 93020723501 NLA?
Page 107-05
—Idle stabilizer hose top #34: 93011066500
—Idle stabilizer hose bottom #38: 93011058902
—Moulded hose #24 L shape top of T, top of pressure regulator, side of diaphragm: 92857471702 x3
—4x1 vacuum line (rigid) N02013911 2 meters
Small pipe 4x1 #21B x3
Small pipe 4x1 #22 210mm
Small pipe 4x1 #23 380mm
—3 way: 92857372702
—4 way: 92857372905
Page 107-10
—Vacuum hose #14: 11.8x19 45mm: 99918102251 x4
—U shape house #24: 99918106841
Page 907-00 Cruise Control
—#40, 41, 42 3.5x7.5 hose N0203535 2m needed
—#15 9x15 hose N0203591 1m needed
—Inspect and refinish fan / housing / plating
—Refinish engine tin - powdercoat
—Have alternator rebuilt / refurbished - getting some whine under load (lights/ heat on)
—Insect rubber fuel lines to hard lines by the fuel pump

GTgears

He's semi retired and is building his own cabin in the woods. He's said that publicly. The guys whining must have missed that. He makes a quality product but if you expect Amazon like service shop elsewhere.

Techno Duck

For the speed and reference sensors; get the BMW part. Just has a slightly longer harness than the original Porsche sensors but is 1/2 the cost.

Spyerx

I got the Bosche OEM ones which were 1/2 the price of the Porsche ones.

What's the BMW part number for future reference?

I think I found them... And yeah they are 1/2 the price

Spyerx

So .... Huge pile of parts showing up. 2 hoses and a seal are coming from Germany and then I should have everything I'll be doing proactively.

Keeping fingers crossed no surprises once the motor is out. I know how I am and this could turn expensive :-)

Will keep this updated with the progress and what we find.

Christian J

I have a motor at Len's now. Your fuel lines will get shipped eventually. Worth the wait.

Amber Gramps

How is your sound pad? Bob at AppBiz makes the best on the market

Spyerx

all good. when i replaced the motor mounts I had the pad replaced (made it easier, dropped motor down a bit). used Bob's pad.

theiceman

Sounds like you will be fine. I am currently serviceing the CV joints and heater boxes while my engine is out. just took off Bowden cables to the heater box on both sides, , cleaning them up and regreasing them .
Each end of the Bowden cable is aluminum and subject to corrosion , on mine the body side is good due to being covered in grease, the heater box end was corroded however. Still works but exposed to the elements so devising a rubber sleeve to protect from the elements.

CV joints are simple enough, just dirty, I got 4 new gaskets and some grease in preparation for the engine installation. the pain in the *** is lining it all up while putting engine in and not getting the grease everywhere ,

As a side note I am not replacing my clut , I don't believe in the " while your in there" for such items.

new I think is 8. mm and replacement is about 6.3 mm . im at 7.5, so no replacement for me. I have had my car for 8 years so I figure im good for a few more yet.

I did however replace first and second synchros and glad a I did , they were worn and shiny.