Fuel Pump Replacement
#1
Fuel Pump Replacement
What is the easiest way to access the fuel pump for replacement on a 911sc, should I pull the tank and provide new lines while it is out or jack it up and crawl underneath and do it from the bottom ? Is the best OEM pump is still the Bosch?
#3
Professor of Pending Projects
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Here you go: I would disconnect battery instead of just the fuse, for added safety...
https://rennlist.com/forums/911-foru...procedure.html
https://rennlist.com/forums/911-foru...procedure.html
1985 Porsche 911 – at 198K miles
1) Remove the fuel pump fuse as extra precaution.
2) Remove splash pan under the front – 8mm hex and 17mm socket.
3) Pump is located on a cross member behind fuel tank. Remove cap holding banjo connection using 19mm socket with 17mm open-end wrench to hold check valve. Very little gas came out as pump stops gas coming from tank.
4) Two copper washers are used, one on each side of banjo fitting. I reused them after sanding since small ridges could be felt.
5) Nuts on the terminals are 7mm and 8mm wrench size, studs different sizes so +/- don’t get mixed. Note the orientation of the terminals for reinstallation, my small + terminal was down.
6) I did not replace crimp-on terminals, instead cut old boots off with diagonal cutters. Cut new boots to slip over old terminals and sealed with small zip-tie.
7) Squeeze inlet hose to limit gas flow from tank. I used needle-nose vice grip since jaws were flat.
8) Remove inlet hose from pump. A small gas drip was stopped using the rubber cap covering the check valve on new pump.
9) Remove old pump and replace with new. I sanded the + lug due to small corrosion and covered it with dialectic grease before fitting the boot. Connect terminals before tightening pump strap for better access.
10) Cut the ½” replacement hose to length. Porsche says 90mm length, mine measured 4.0 inches. I connected the hose/clamp before installing pump.
11) Keep pump strap loose. Remove old hose from tank and quickly put your finger on the tank connection. With the pump/hose in place I was able to connect it to the tank losing only a table spoon of fuel. Have a new clamp on the hose before connecting it as the ½” hose will leak somewhat (maybe it should be 12mm).
12) Tighten pump strap and connect banjo fitting/copper washers with cap nut.
13) Replace fuse and turn ignition on to build pressure and check for leaks.
Note: You can measure the pump circuit from the fuse block with ohm meter but you need to remove the fuse otherwise something (DME?) gives you ~5-10ohm reading even if pump is open. The resistance of the new pumps was ~7-8ohms.
1) Remove the fuel pump fuse as extra precaution.
2) Remove splash pan under the front – 8mm hex and 17mm socket.
3) Pump is located on a cross member behind fuel tank. Remove cap holding banjo connection using 19mm socket with 17mm open-end wrench to hold check valve. Very little gas came out as pump stops gas coming from tank.
4) Two copper washers are used, one on each side of banjo fitting. I reused them after sanding since small ridges could be felt.
5) Nuts on the terminals are 7mm and 8mm wrench size, studs different sizes so +/- don’t get mixed. Note the orientation of the terminals for reinstallation, my small + terminal was down.
6) I did not replace crimp-on terminals, instead cut old boots off with diagonal cutters. Cut new boots to slip over old terminals and sealed with small zip-tie.
7) Squeeze inlet hose to limit gas flow from tank. I used needle-nose vice grip since jaws were flat.
8) Remove inlet hose from pump. A small gas drip was stopped using the rubber cap covering the check valve on new pump.
9) Remove old pump and replace with new. I sanded the + lug due to small corrosion and covered it with dialectic grease before fitting the boot. Connect terminals before tightening pump strap for better access.
10) Cut the ½” replacement hose to length. Porsche says 90mm length, mine measured 4.0 inches. I connected the hose/clamp before installing pump.
11) Keep pump strap loose. Remove old hose from tank and quickly put your finger on the tank connection. With the pump/hose in place I was able to connect it to the tank losing only a table spoon of fuel. Have a new clamp on the hose before connecting it as the ½” hose will leak somewhat (maybe it should be 12mm).
12) Tighten pump strap and connect banjo fitting/copper washers with cap nut.
13) Replace fuse and turn ignition on to build pressure and check for leaks.
Note: You can measure the pump circuit from the fuse block with ohm meter but you need to remove the fuse otherwise something (DME?) gives you ~5-10ohm reading even if pump is open. The resistance of the new pumps was ~7-8ohms.
#5
I haddah Google dat
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
I think new copper washers can be bought at Vato Zone or O'Reillys. I would replace them. Don't know about the zip tie thing.
The belly pan is a joy (not) to put back. I install the back bolts first, then pry the pan forward to line up the front bolts. Whalebird has a neat trick of tying a rag to the fuel line, giving fuel a better path to travel than down your arm and into your ear.
The belly pan is a joy (not) to put back. I install the back bolts first, then pry the pan forward to line up the front bolts. Whalebird has a neat trick of tying a rag to the fuel line, giving fuel a better path to travel than down your arm and into your ear.
#6
I'm glad I'm not the only one who thinks that belly pan is a nightmare to put back on.
Last time, it may have taken me an hour to finally push up hard enough to get the bolt threaded.
I thought maybe my pan was bent, but I think the sway bar pushes it downwards.
Last time, it may have taken me an hour to finally push up hard enough to get the bolt threaded.
I thought maybe my pan was bent, but I think the sway bar pushes it downwards.
#7
I got pump, tools, flashlite held in my teeth, all ready to do the job, and discovered the fuel line was brittle (doh! only 33 years old. who would have thunk it!) Go ahead and get some fuel line. Replace it now while you are under there.