Help! Replaced Air Filter - Now Won't Start
12-29-2015, 11:05 PM
#1
Help! Replaced Air Filter - Now Won't Start
In keeping up with my Porsche's maintenance, I cleaned out my K&N air filter. After reinstalling, my Porsche won't turn on.
At first, it turned on just fine but would turn off if I tried to close the engine lid just a couple of inches. I attempted to troubleshoot by turning it on and slowly closing the lid to see if something was getting pinched a couple more times. Then I tried to turn on the car with the engine lid closed and it wouldn't. Now it won't turn on at all.
Any idea what it could be?
I did struggle to remove and replace the air box and am thinking I may have loosened something but can't tell yet.
At first, it turned on just fine but would turn off if I tried to close the engine lid just a couple of inches. I attempted to troubleshoot by turning it on and slowly closing the lid to see if something was getting pinched a couple more times. Then I tried to turn on the car with the engine lid closed and it wouldn't. Now it won't turn on at all.
Any idea what it could be?
I did struggle to remove and replace the air box and am thinking I may have loosened something but can't tell yet.
12-30-2015, 11:55 AM
#2
Rennlist Member
You are very vague about the problem. Did you remove the entire air box or only the cover? Did you remove any hoses that connect to the air box. Did you loosen and hoses clos to the oil filler cap?
My first recommendation is to pitch the K&N and get a factory filter. Go back to basics and check everything after you've put the stock filter in the box. I had problems with K&N filters years ago and only resolved them when I reverted back to factory filters.
When you say Porsche won't turn on...does that mean it won't turn over, or does it mean it turns over, but won't start. Closing the deck lid should not affect either of those scenarios.
My first recommendation is to pitch the K&N and get a factory filter. Go back to basics and check everything after you've put the stock filter in the box. I had problems with K&N filters years ago and only resolved them when I reverted back to factory filters.
When you say Porsche won't turn on...does that mean it won't turn over, or does it mean it turns over, but won't start. Closing the deck lid should not affect either of those scenarios.
12-30-2015, 12:37 PM
#3
You are very vague about the problem. Did you remove the entire air box or only the cover? Did you remove any hoses that connect to the air box. Did you loosen and hoses clos to the oil filler cap? My first recommendation is to pitch the K&N and get a factory filter. Go back to basics and check everything after you've put the stock filter in the box. I had problems with K&N filters years ago and only resolved them when I reverted back to factory filters. When you say Porsche won't turn on...does that mean it won't turn over, or does it mean it turns over, but won't start. Closing the deck lid should not affect either of those scenarios.
I did notice a small external valve on the left side of the air box with nothing connected to it. Behind the air box I found a small black tube connected to nothing. Let me get some pics.. Perhaps my issue is related to that.
Why would the engine turn off when closing the engine lid? A PCA friend said it could be due to bad grounding or maybe the alarm system as there are some related wires going from the inside of the whale tail to the inside of the car on the same side as the air box.
12-30-2015, 06:38 PM
#6
Well, I got my car to turn on. I removed the air filter for now and I reconnected a black tube into a rubber female end I discovered yesterday evening. I haven't tried closing the engine lid yet. I figured I'd let it run a bit to let the battery recharge.
12-30-2015, 06:39 PM
#7
(Just keeping you posted and documenting what I've done so far)
Me reconnecting that had nothing to do with the car starting up again unfortunately. Should I leave it connected now? Lol. After it started and was running for a while, I began to slowly close the engine lid. I was able to close it a lot further and just when it was about closed, the engine shut down. I started the car again and while it was running I started messing with the grounding strap attached to the left hinge and the car sputtered. As soon as I released, it stabilized again. I then shut down the engine manually so it wouldn't shut off while taking a closer look at the surrounding wires. There are some suspect wires around the fuel filter.
Me reconnecting that had nothing to do with the car starting up again unfortunately. Should I leave it connected now? Lol. After it started and was running for a while, I began to slowly close the engine lid. I was able to close it a lot further and just when it was about closed, the engine shut down. I started the car again and while it was running I started messing with the grounding strap attached to the left hinge and the car sputtered. As soon as I released, it stabilized again. I then shut down the engine manually so it wouldn't shut off while taking a closer look at the surrounding wires. There are some suspect wires around the fuel filter.
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12-30-2015, 07:18 PM
#8
Around the fuel filter I found these guys.
http://imgur.com/vlYcfP1
One wasn't in the empty slot and was badly electrical-taped. I removed the electrical tape to see inserted was just one wire on the top. There were also some corroded plastic chunks. I attempted to find a related wire that would insert into the bottom end but could not find one. It almost looks like the other end is going to another wire. I reinserted the wire into the top end and coated the whole thing with liquid electrical tape for now. I'm going to use my inspection scope to see if more can be revealed around there.
http://imgur.com/3jeglOE
For the time being, the battery is disconnected while I do some more inspecting.
http://imgur.com/vlYcfP1
One wasn't in the empty slot and was badly electrical-taped. I removed the electrical tape to see inserted was just one wire on the top. There were also some corroded plastic chunks. I attempted to find a related wire that would insert into the bottom end but could not find one. It almost looks like the other end is going to another wire. I reinserted the wire into the top end and coated the whole thing with liquid electrical tape for now. I'm going to use my inspection scope to see if more can be revealed around there.
http://imgur.com/3jeglOE
For the time being, the battery is disconnected while I do some more inspecting.
12-30-2015, 07:53 PM
#9
Rennlist Member
There are 3 sensors that go into those square openings. One is the speed sensor, second is a reference sensor, and I think the third is the Cylinder Head Temp (CHT) sensor. If those are not in excellent shape, they may be the culprits.
12-30-2015, 08:06 PM
#10
Man, I hope that's all and a quick fix will make my Porsche that much stronger!
12-30-2015, 08:13 PM
#11
Plan on replacing those, the engine harness side typically is in good shape but the sensor sides are brittle and crack. Replacing the sensors is a smart idea so you don't get stuck on the side of the road.
12-30-2015, 08:21 PM
#12
Rennlist Member
Two of the sensors are located on the differential case and you have to work them through the holes up to the three hole mount. The CHT screws into the left head area and mounts next to the other two. I had 135,000 miles on mine when I changed them. Even though I never had any problems with the old ones, I could see where white material was staring to crack. The car was even more drivable. Good Luck.
12-31-2015, 03:21 PM
#13
Two of the sensors are located on the differential case and you have to work them through the holes up to the three hole mount. The CHT screws into the left head area and mounts next to the other two. I had 135,000 miles on mine when I changed them. Even though I never had any problems with the old ones, I could see where white material was staring to crack. The car was even more drivable. Good Luck.
12-31-2015, 03:49 PM
#14
After some more research, I've discovered the one wire is normal as it's the CHT sensor and has no ground. Pelican apparently provides an upgraded sensor with a ground. I'm one step closer to resolving this!
Related Pelican Tech article:
http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarti...emp_sensor.htm
Related Pelican Tech article:
http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarti...emp_sensor.htm
12-31-2015, 03:55 PM
#15
Rennlist Member
I suggest you call Pelican and chat with them. The Cylinder Head Temperature Sensor (CHT) for an 84-89 3.2 is P/N 930-606-915-00 is approx. $96.00.
The other two sensors are P/N 911-606-215-01-M14, approx. $160.
Pelican can give you a much better breakdown than I can and hopefully assess your problem fully. They do this every day. As I said before, take out the K&N filter and see if the car runs. I think you may have saturated the filter with spray after you cleaned it. If it's not applied properly, you may be restricting airflow. I also recommend putting a factory paper filter in its place. I tried a K&N once many years ago and my car didn't run normally until I pitched it in the trash and put in the paper filter.
The other two sensors are P/N 911-606-215-01-M14, approx. $160.
Pelican can give you a much better breakdown than I can and hopefully assess your problem fully. They do this every day. As I said before, take out the K&N filter and see if the car runs. I think you may have saturated the filter with spray after you cleaned it. If it's not applied properly, you may be restricting airflow. I also recommend putting a factory paper filter in its place. I tried a K&N once many years ago and my car didn't run normally until I pitched it in the trash and put in the paper filter.