Help! Replaced Air Filter - Now Won't Start
01-01-2016, 12:13 AM
#16
I suggest you call Pelican and chat with them. The Cylinder Head Temperature Sensor (CHT) for an 84-89 3.2 is P/N 930-606-915-00 is approx. $96.00. The other two sensors are P/N 911-606-215-01-M14, approx. $160. Pelican can give you a much better breakdown than I can and hopefully assess your problem fully. They do this every day. As I said before, take out the K&N filter and see if the car runs. I think you may have saturated the filter with spray after you cleaned it. If it's not applied properly, you may be restricting airflow. I also recommend putting a factory paper filter in its place. I tried a K&N once many years ago and my car didn't run normally until I pitched it in the trash and put in the paper filter.
I see light at the end of the tunnel! I just need to remove a few things to access the area better. In the mean time, I'll turn on the engine every other day and let it run to keep things flowing. I won't be able to take her out for a spin until I repair the wire or replace the female end of the CHT sensor.
Thank you Ron! I love being a PCA member!!
01-01-2016, 08:37 PM
#18
After removing some of the air components, I peeled back the rubber boot and outer plastic to reveal the red/black wire doesn't look too bad though I haven't ruled it out yet. I did notice the red/black wire has some play at the connection end. I can move it back and forth some. I'll test it further tomorrow with the battery connected and the engine running to narrow it down more.
http://imgur.com/a/hIFQH
http://imgur.com/a/hIFQH
Last edited by porsche2fst4u; 01-08-2016 at 07:09 PM.
01-06-2016, 02:09 PM
#19
I tightened the loose connection which had no effect. I stripped the red/black wire as far back as I could (about 6inchs) hoping to reveal a break in the wire or some corrosion..nothing. With the red/black wire being separate from the others, my engine seemed to run fine even with me carefully moving the wire around. I ran out of time and recoated the copper wire with liquid electrical tape for now. I'll do some more testing this weekend.
I reached out to Pelican who mentioned they don't carry a replacement wiring harness and referred me to The Porsche dealership. I spoke with someone from the Porsche parts department who mentioned they don't carry that part either. I then started searching for replacement wiring harnesses online and found a couple of places that'll repair my wiring harness if I can ship it to them. So, I'll continue with troubleshooting and hoping I can apply a temporary fix to keep driving my car while seeing what's involved in removing the entire harness to send it for repairs.
I'm also hoping someone will chime who has a spare wiring harness lying around.
Keeping my fingers crossed..
I reached out to Pelican who mentioned they don't carry a replacement wiring harness and referred me to The Porsche dealership. I spoke with someone from the Porsche parts department who mentioned they don't carry that part either. I then started searching for replacement wiring harnesses online and found a couple of places that'll repair my wiring harness if I can ship it to them. So, I'll continue with troubleshooting and hoping I can apply a temporary fix to keep driving my car while seeing what's involved in removing the entire harness to send it for repairs.
I'm also hoping someone will chime who has a spare wiring harness lying around.
Keeping my fingers crossed..
01-06-2016, 02:30 PM
#20
Professor of Pending Projects
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
I suggest you call Pelican and chat with them. The Cylinder Head Temperature Sensor (CHT) for an 84-89 3.2 is P/N 930-606-915-00 is approx. $96.00.
The other two sensors are P/N 911-606-215-01-M14, approx. $160.
Pelican can give you a much better breakdown than I can and hopefully assess your problem fully. They do this every day. As I said before, take out the K&N filter and see if the car runs. I think you may have saturated the filter with spray after you cleaned it. If it's not applied properly, you may be restricting airflow. I also recommend putting a factory paper filter in its place. I tried a K&N once many years ago and my car didn't run normally until I pitched it in the trash and put in the paper filter.
The other two sensors are P/N 911-606-215-01-M14, approx. $160.
Pelican can give you a much better breakdown than I can and hopefully assess your problem fully. They do this every day. As I said before, take out the K&N filter and see if the car runs. I think you may have saturated the filter with spray after you cleaned it. If it's not applied properly, you may be restricting airflow. I also recommend putting a factory paper filter in its place. I tried a K&N once many years ago and my car didn't run normally until I pitched it in the trash and put in the paper filter.
01-06-2016, 03:48 PM
#21
For $23.99, I just ordered my stock filter! Thanks guys!
I'll have to remove my K&N sticker now.
lol
I'll also be taking a closer look at the associated CHT ground wire as my buddy mentioned that could also be culprit.
I'll have to remove my K&N sticker now.
lol I'll also be taking a closer look at the associated CHT ground wire as my buddy mentioned that could also be culprit.
Last edited by porsche2fst4u; 01-06-2016 at 10:30 PM.
01-07-2016, 12:28 PM
#22
Team Owner
the cht sensor is easy to eliminate . If the car is struggling while warm jumper the CHT with a paperclip . if it works fine its the cht. Just unplug it and jam a paperclip in the connection . if the car works well when cold but struggles as it warms up im pretty sure that will be it .
01-08-2016, 06:57 PM
#23
the cht sensor is easy to eliminate . If the car is struggling while warm jumper the CHT with a paperclip . if it works fine its the cht. Just unplug it and jam a paperclip in the connection . if the car works well when cold but struggles as it warms up im pretty sure that will be it .
My buddy James gave me a a replacement terminal and wire from a fan blower. Apparently they use the same gauge and terminal connectors.
I will be soldering that in place this weekend and keep you all posted.
01-11-2016, 01:15 AM
#24
My Carrera's running again!!
Upon inspecting the ground wire, I noticed it too was loose, so using a small flathead I got in there to tighten the connection. I didn't think this would have any effect as nothing connects into it but it seems to have calmed or even resolve the issue. After tightening it, I was able to move the wires around without my engine cutting off. I rewrapped the wires with electrical tape and use homemade wire looms to secure the connection out of the way of my engine lid hinge (left side).
I'm now able to close my engine lid and run the car. I also installed a stock Mahle air filter which looks great! I love how the orange contrasts.
I'm still not 100% sure the problem is fixed but at least it's running for now. My game plan is as follows:
1. Don't drive the car around until..
2. Make appointment to install front rotors/brakes/hardware//bearings/seals/fluid
3. Drive car to appointment
4. Have mechanic install then take a look at my repairs - seek advice
My reasoning is if my repairs aren't sufficient and my car breaks down en route to the shop, I can always get it towed to the shop where at least they'll be expecting it.
Wish me luck! I'll be scheduling my appointment ASAP.
Upon inspecting the ground wire, I noticed it too was loose, so using a small flathead I got in there to tighten the connection. I didn't think this would have any effect as nothing connects into it but it seems to have calmed or even resolve the issue. After tightening it, I was able to move the wires around without my engine cutting off. I rewrapped the wires with electrical tape and use homemade wire looms to secure the connection out of the way of my engine lid hinge (left side).
I'm now able to close my engine lid and run the car. I also installed a stock Mahle air filter which looks great! I love how the orange contrasts.
I'm still not 100% sure the problem is fixed but at least it's running for now. My game plan is as follows:
1. Don't drive the car around until..
2. Make appointment to install front rotors/brakes/hardware//bearings/seals/fluid
3. Drive car to appointment
4. Have mechanic install then take a look at my repairs - seek advice
My reasoning is if my repairs aren't sufficient and my car breaks down en route to the shop, I can always get it towed to the shop where at least they'll be expecting it.
Wish me luck! I'll be scheduling my appointment ASAP.
01-11-2016, 01:18 AM
#25
Professor of Pending Projects
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Best of luck!! Best to check the rest of the grounds on the car. But great to read that you got it running without cutting off!!
01-27-2016, 06:57 PM
#27
My repair has proven worthy as my buddy James and I were unable to make the engine shut off by messing with the wire like before. We ran into a few issues installing my front brake pads and rotors. Though it's not related to my initial thread, I'll post anyway in hopes it may save someone else some time.
Lesson's learned:
1. Do not purchase brake pads from Advance auto parts for your Porsche. In my case, they weren't the correct ones even though their website listed them fitting my '85 911. They graciously gave me a refund and are still great for other automotive products.
2. My mechanic fortunately had some barely used pads he passed me to continue with our project.
3. The rotors I purchased from Pelican for my '85 were the wrong ones. Pelican mentioned the description and part number they had listed on their site was incorrect and required updating. They too graciously gave me a refund and RMA. I'm just waiting for them to receive the rotors so I can order the correct ones.
4. To get me back on the road, we simply reinstalled the old rotors while I wait for the correct pads/rotors and make another appointment with him.
5. Loosening old brake lines is tricky and one broke in the process. We went to Autozone where my mechanic was able to purchase a suitable brake line which fit great! I'm going to spring for the Steel Braided brake lines from Pelican as they're not that expensive and I should've purchased them in the first place.
Summary:
I'm so glad I tackled this project with the help of a professional Porsche mechanic who I met through my local PCA. No matter the issue, he didn't break a sweat and figured something out. Had I tackled this project alone or with someone who's just "good with cars", I think we would've hit some brick walls, forcing me to have the car towed to a shop. His technique for removing and installing the wheel bearings was great! I learned a lot.
The nightmare is now but a bad dream that is almost coming to an end. I can't wait to get back out there on a regular basis. For now, she's running great though I'm "trying" to limit how often I take her out until the new rotors and pads are installed.
Lesson's learned:
1. Do not purchase brake pads from Advance auto parts for your Porsche. In my case, they weren't the correct ones even though their website listed them fitting my '85 911. They graciously gave me a refund and are still great for other automotive products.
2. My mechanic fortunately had some barely used pads he passed me to continue with our project.
3. The rotors I purchased from Pelican for my '85 were the wrong ones. Pelican mentioned the description and part number they had listed on their site was incorrect and required updating. They too graciously gave me a refund and RMA. I'm just waiting for them to receive the rotors so I can order the correct ones.
4. To get me back on the road, we simply reinstalled the old rotors while I wait for the correct pads/rotors and make another appointment with him.
5. Loosening old brake lines is tricky and one broke in the process. We went to Autozone where my mechanic was able to purchase a suitable brake line which fit great! I'm going to spring for the Steel Braided brake lines from Pelican as they're not that expensive and I should've purchased them in the first place.
Summary:
I'm so glad I tackled this project with the help of a professional Porsche mechanic who I met through my local PCA. No matter the issue, he didn't break a sweat and figured something out. Had I tackled this project alone or with someone who's just "good with cars", I think we would've hit some brick walls, forcing me to have the car towed to a shop. His technique for removing and installing the wheel bearings was great! I learned a lot.
The nightmare is now but a bad dream that is almost coming to an end. I can't wait to get back out there on a regular basis. For now, she's running great though I'm "trying" to limit how often I take her out until the new rotors and pads are installed.
02-03-2016, 06:43 PM
#29
I haddah Google dat
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Egads.
The top should be reference, middle is speed, and bottom is CHT. Invest in a Bentley Publishing service manual.
I'd look into the Paragon Products website for the 944 sensors. They are around $80 or so vs. over $200 for the 911.
It sounds to me as if you loosened something and created a huge vacuum leak. You can test this by spraying starting fluid into the airbox. But really, with those sensors all cracked, they need to be replaced.
The top should be reference, middle is speed, and bottom is CHT. Invest in a Bentley Publishing service manual.
I'd look into the Paragon Products website for the 944 sensors. They are around $80 or so vs. over $200 for the 911.
It sounds to me as if you loosened something and created a huge vacuum leak. You can test this by spraying starting fluid into the airbox. But really, with those sensors all cracked, they need to be replaced.