So the 915 transmission.....
#16
Rennlist Member
So, I'm curious as to why-if I'm reading this correctly- one needs to downshift into first while decelerating or stopping? I put many a mile on a 915 trans, and many a lap at the track. I never felt compelled to put that kind of strain on my drivetrain, unless rev matching into a very tight/slow turn. I'd typically time sliding the lever into 1st right as I came to a stop.
As to the question on people driving around needing rebuilds, search Pete's old thread here on what it takes to REALLY rebuild a box correctly. There are a lot of hacks selling "$1000 rebuilds" that probably only include a couple of syncros.
When you understand that there is some talent needed here, and some proper tools, you'll understand the labor rates.
I personally have never been afraid to do much to my cars. Engine build of a 3.2/3.4 included. BUT, I am intimidated as all get out, about ever trying to rebuild a trans. Too many gears and round thingies for my taste.
As to the question on people driving around needing rebuilds, search Pete's old thread here on what it takes to REALLY rebuild a box correctly. There are a lot of hacks selling "$1000 rebuilds" that probably only include a couple of syncros.
When you understand that there is some talent needed here, and some proper tools, you'll understand the labor rates.
I personally have never been afraid to do much to my cars. Engine build of a 3.2/3.4 included. BUT, I am intimidated as all get out, about ever trying to rebuild a trans. Too many gears and round thingies for my taste.
#17
Drifting
Originally Posted by tgil
Have an 80 Weissach with 52k miles, stock, and it shifts perfectly.
MY 84 Targa was causing me some shifting issues- mechanic discovered worn out couples. Replaced couplers, installed short shift kit, and all if good now. Also changed out engine and trans mounts with OEM parts which probably helped Targa as well.
MY 84 Targa was causing me some shifting issues- mechanic discovered worn out couples. Replaced couplers, installed short shift kit, and all if good now. Also changed out engine and trans mounts with OEM parts which probably helped Targa as well.
#18
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
When you understand that there is some talent needed here, and some proper tools, you'll understand the labor rates.
I personally have never been afraid to do much to my cars. Engine build of a 3.2/3.4 included. BUT, I am intimidated as all get out, about ever trying to rebuild a trans. Too many gears and round thingies for my taste.
I personally have never been afraid to do much to my cars. Engine build of a 3.2/3.4 included. BUT, I am intimidated as all get out, about ever trying to rebuild a trans. Too many gears and round thingies for my taste.
Fortunately, I scored BIG-TIME on a complete VW385 toolset, and even found the proper, original manufacturer (Peisler) cam part for my VW385/1 bar when that little bugger gave up the ghost. If you do not have the proper FACTORY tools (and I consider Steven Stomski's tools of factory caliber for engine work), do NOT attempt to work on the transmission. You can still buy most of the factory press pieces from Porsche.snapon.com. If you know the part number for the factory tools (they ALL start with 000-721), you can order many of the tools directly from your dealer. All of the factory tools are VERY EXPENSIVE, but they make the job much more doable!
Toby
Remember - He who dies with the MOST TOOLS, wins!!
#19
Nordschleife Master
So, I'm curious as to why-if I'm reading this correctly- one needs to downshift into first while decelerating or stopping? I put many a mile on a 915 trans, and many a lap at the track. I never felt compelled to put that kind of strain on my drivetrain, unless rev matching into a very tight/slow turn. I'd typically time sliding the lever into 1st right as I came to a stop.
#20
Drifting
^^^Agree.
My 915 shifts great but it is obviously completely different than other Porsche's I have owned, all of which have either been newer or a different model. I do thoroughly enjoy it though.
My 915 shifts great but it is obviously completely different than other Porsche's I have owned, all of which have either been newer or a different model. I do thoroughly enjoy it though.
#21
Rennlist Member
That's my point. It seems that often when people complain about getting into first gear being difficult, it's often with the statements "when slowing" or "approaching a stop sign". Well, of course it doesn't want to go into first!
#22
Nordschleife Master
915.303.129.09 Wevo makes a gated replacement that is a good upgrade for anyone rebuilding a 915 gearbox and looking for a more "bolt action" shift feel.
I just came in from moving the 912 in my avatar out of the elements. I find it interesting that there just aren't these same threads about the 901 family of gearboxes. Anyone with an early car understands that the dog leg first is for a standing start and any time the car is in motion, you use 2nd and stay on the main H of the shifting tree.
#23
Had my box 'refreshed' for 2500 bucks..all labor and parts (a year ago). It is not new inside but wear out items replaced (typical broken dog teeth etc...the PO was/had to be ham fisted-etc. as I found some teeth on PPI)
I can downshift into 1st gear while moving without issue (slow approach and steep hill going home) and from a stand still nothing to it.
It is still a 915 and at low, local speeds, one does the two movement shift.
At high rpm, real speed, it shifts effortlessly.
I can downshift into 1st gear while moving without issue (slow approach and steep hill going home) and from a stand still nothing to it.
It is still a 915 and at low, local speeds, one does the two movement shift.
At high rpm, real speed, it shifts effortlessly.
#24
Rennlist Member
As to the question on people driving around needing rebuilds, search Pete's old thread here on what it takes to REALLY rebuild a box correctly. There are a lot of hacks selling "$1000 rebuilds" that probably only include a couple of syncros.
When you understand that there is some talent needed here, and some proper tools, you'll understand the labor rates.
I personally have never been afraid to do much to my cars. Engine build of a 3.2/3.4 included. BUT, I am intimidated as all get out, about ever trying to rebuild a trans. Too many gears and round thingies for my taste.
When you understand that there is some talent needed here, and some proper tools, you'll understand the labor rates.
I personally have never been afraid to do much to my cars. Engine build of a 3.2/3.4 included. BUT, I am intimidated as all get out, about ever trying to rebuild a trans. Too many gears and round thingies for my taste.
Ed, having done a 2.7 CIS engine, a 2.4 MFI engine and two 930/65 engines, tackling my 915 gearbox in Tweety was nerve-wracking.
Fortunately, I scored BIG-TIME on a complete VW385 toolset, and even found the proper, original manufacturer (Peisler) cam part for my VW385/1 bar when that little bugger gave up the ghost. If you do not have the proper FACTORY tools (and I consider Steven Stomski's tools of factory caliber for engine work), do NOT attempt to work on the transmission. You can still buy most of the factory press pieces from Porsche.snapon.com. If you know the part number for the factory tools (they ALL start with 000-721), you can order many of the tools directly from your dealer. All of the factory tools are VERY EXPENSIVE, but they make the job much more doable!
Toby
Remember - He who dies with the MOST TOOLS, wins!!
Fortunately, I scored BIG-TIME on a complete VW385 toolset, and even found the proper, original manufacturer (Peisler) cam part for my VW385/1 bar when that little bugger gave up the ghost. If you do not have the proper FACTORY tools (and I consider Steven Stomski's tools of factory caliber for engine work), do NOT attempt to work on the transmission. You can still buy most of the factory press pieces from Porsche.snapon.com. If you know the part number for the factory tools (they ALL start with 000-721), you can order many of the tools directly from your dealer. All of the factory tools are VERY EXPENSIVE, but they make the job much more doable!
Toby
Remember - He who dies with the MOST TOOLS, wins!!
#25
Nordschleife Master
You really only need the 385 bar if you are doing ring and pinions or LSD installs. The fork alignment jig is useful but not required.
#26
Rennlist Member
And I was always careful on marking forks, prior to disassembly.
Then you've got the situations where you're full into a box on a Saturday evening with only your travelling tools, working on dirt in fading light at the track............
#27
Three Wheelin'
Replacing your 1st and 2nd gear synchro should solve your problem. The 915's for sure acquire a special touch compared to the G50. You need to make sure your clutch pedal is fully depressed before changing gears. They also don't like going into 1st unless fully stopped.
I recently bought a 85 Carrera with 116k on the original transmission. The clutch on it was shot so I replaced it right away. I'm planning on rebuilding the transmission next. My 1st & 2nd synchro's definitely grind while driving aggressively and when I don't take time between shifts. Going into 2nd before you shift into 1st is little trick that might help you find the gear and eliminate any grinding. It has been working for me.
I recently bought a 85 Carrera with 116k on the original transmission. The clutch on it was shot so I replaced it right away. I'm planning on rebuilding the transmission next. My 1st & 2nd synchro's definitely grind while driving aggressively and when I don't take time between shifts. Going into 2nd before you shift into 1st is little trick that might help you find the gear and eliminate any grinding. It has been working for me.
#28
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
I don't downshift into first...ever on any of my cars. It's just slotting into first to actually, you know, drive forward. All the other gears are fine. I have been using 2nd 85% of the time but it requires some throttle adjustment on my part with the pedal.
I've just had the engine completely done and honestly we thought it was the clutch, now we have to go back and remove it etc etc which is a bummer.
I've just had the engine completely done and honestly we thought it was the clutch, now we have to go back and remove it etc etc which is a bummer.
#29
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Replacing your 1st and 2nd gear synchro should solve your problem. The 915's for sure acquire a special touch compared to the G50. You need to make sure your clutch pedal is fully depressed before changing gears. They also don't like going into 1st unless fully stopped.
I recently bought a 85 Carrera with 116k on the original transmission. The clutch on it was shot so I replaced it right away. I'm planning on rebuilding the transmission next. My 1st & 2nd synchro's definitely grind while driving aggressively and when I don't take time between shifts. Going into 2nd before you shift into 1st is little trick that might help you find the gear and eliminate any grinding. It has been working for me.
I recently bought a 85 Carrera with 116k on the original transmission. The clutch on it was shot so I replaced it right away. I'm planning on rebuilding the transmission next. My 1st & 2nd synchro's definitely grind while driving aggressively and when I don't take time between shifts. Going into 2nd before you shift into 1st is little trick that might help you find the gear and eliminate any grinding. It has been working for me.
My next question is wether to do the WEVO gate while its apart.
#30
Rennlist Member
My 915 with fresh tranny fluid, new bushing and coupler adjusted will go into all gears like butter. Have you had the coupler adjusted? And I assume you already change your tranny oil? Honestly I like my 915 better than my 993 tranny with golden rod.