MTR

A family member of mine is the original owner of a 1975 911S coupe. It's white with tan interior and 100% stock, matching 2.7L & transmission, 85k odometer, and comes with a stack of records. Car is in good shape, original paint, no accidents or rust, etc.

The car has sat in his garage for the last 7 years and currently does not run. He recently decided to sell the car and I'm interested in purchasing it. We are trying to get to a reasonable value of it. Since he is a family member, I don't want him to feel like I'm ripping him off, but I also don't want to overpay for a can of worms that could cost a bunch to get running again. I tried to look up some asking prices of other 74-77 911S that have been up for sale recently and the pricing is all over the place, but this one is not running which is a big difference.

I'm thinking at a minimum it will need:
Battery: $100
New Fluids: $200
Tires: $1000
Plugs/Wires/Distributor: $300
Drain fuel: $?
(Am I forgetting anything that needs to be done at a bare minimum?)

Obviously this list could become significantly longer and more expensive if the motor requires work. I would like to get some opinions on what you guys think this car is worth as it sits. Really appreciate the feedback.

Thanks,
Mike

GTgears

That's a $25k+/- car on the open market. Friends and family price of $15-20k depending on how much they need the money and/or want to see it stay in the family.

Value could be higher if it is nicer than a Hagerty 3.

Charles Freeborn

^^ Spot on.
There are a number of other factors, depending on how you plan to use it (just street, occasional track, AX, etc).
-C

Fracture

why not have it inspected / PPI'd and work from there?

tcsracing1

one owner!
$25k car. Especially if body is decent.

Friends and Family price $20k i would suspect.

I recently was offered a friends and family car... no deal when the dust settled. Family wanted top dollar after checking ebay listings...

race911

Any reason why it was parked? Also, huge difference if the original 2.7ness of the engine has been corrected.

MTR

Well the thing is he is moving to a smaller house with a 2 car garage instead of 3, hence the Porsche has to go. Because it doesn't run it would have to get towed via a flatbed to a shop to get it running then get the PPI done. Time is of the essence because he already moved into his new place and needs to have everything out of his old home in a couple weeks. Obviously he is very busy in general because of the move, selling a house, and buying a new one - so getting the Porsche addressed isn't his top priority.

I got quotes from 4 enclosed car transport companies for a non-running car and it's going to run ~$1100-1300 to get it shipped from VA to FL. So I'm trying to help him out as well by saying don't worry about trying to get it fixed, let's just agree to a price and I'll get it shipped and work on getting it running down here in FL where I won't be in such a rush.

The reason the car was parked started because of some electrical issue he said where the car would start-up fine and run then cut out. He mentioned something about it needing some electrical part which he couldn't remember the name (he likes Porsches but I wouldn't call him a car guy) - of course I'm trying to give him ideas: alternator, distributor, battery, fuse box to which he continually replied "no that's not it." Anyway he said this mysterious part costs $800. But it sounds like the motor overall is stout.

What typically needs to be addressed on the 2.7Ls? I've read that they are magnesium cases and have issues with the valve guides and head studs. Any ideas what the cost is to have those two items addressed. Am I forgetting anything critical?

Thanks for the help and opinions.
Mike

obscene

$25k, in my opinion, is spot on for this car if it were running and driving. Given the current state, I wouldn't feel bad offering him $15k and telling him you'll take care of the towing hassle.

race911

The main "$800" electrical part it the CD (aka ignition) box. If not electrical, then the air box. Amazing how many cars with sorta split ones still ran enough for the owners to drive them.

Generally, absent chain tensioner failure, a 2.7 runs until it doesn't while leaving larger and larger oil puddles wherever you park it. At some point the owner would be disturbed by what appeared to be an exhaust leak. When they got it to a shop that knew what they were doing, a simple check of head stud torque would probably find 2-6 not holding. Then the fun began. In the old days, you were at $5-7K to bust it all down, fix what needed fixing, and getting it back together. Today? I haven't done a 2.7 in about 20 years now, but $10-12K would be an honest retail bill. Then, don't forget addressing the transaxle, at least the 1st/2nd dog teeth and associated parts.

All said, if you jump on something like this at retail, you're assuming all the risk. And no matter the feeding frenzy on these things, you've got to want THIS car.

JCP911S

There are several moving parts here.

Unless you are careful, doing business with "friends and family" can result in "ex-friends and family"... some people can get stupid about relatively trivial amounts of money.

The second is that an engine rebuild on this car could run $12-15K... if it doesn't run, you are buying a "pig in a poke.." (and an expensive pig at that)... I doubt it will come to that, but these cars eat money for breakfast.

If I were an unaffiliated buyer, I'd flash about $12-15K cash at the dude and tow it away...

In your case, "fairness" is an issue, so give the guy $15K, take the car to a good Porsche specialist and get everything up to snuff, deduct all the repair costs from $25K, and give him the difference...

The $15K as is, and $25K in good running order sound reasonable, so those are your boundary points.

One way to "cut the baby".

MTR

Yea, I think $25k would be ballpark if it was a fully sorted example. But, I'm planning to fix as much as possible myself to keep the cost down, so giving back the delta to the $25k mark doesn't really work as well due to the sweat equity that I'm planning to put in.

If by chance the 2.7L has issues, which is pure speculation at this point, what does a 3.0 or 3.2 cost? Not looking for a fully built race motor, just something that would provide higher reliability and a few more HP.

Something about a nice white AC 911 with IROC bumpers, ducktail, and dark wheels that always seems to catch my attention... decisions decisions.

JCP911S

Many hypotheticals here.

Big issue with 2.7 is pulled headstuds associated with the thermal reactors used in the emission system.

If it were me, I'd keep the original engine.... even if it needs a top-end rebuild ($6-8K at a shop), its still cheaper than a swap, and maintains the originality of the car, which is the gold standard.

If you can do all the work yourself, you're ahead of the game...

The family politics is on you.

MTR

It shouldn't be a california car so I wouldn't expect thermal reactors, which is a good thing. Sounds like there are a few basic mods which can be done to up the HP on the 2.7L and I do like the idea of keeping the motor original and numbers matching with the car. Thanks again for the feedback, I'll let everyone know how it pans out.

Mike

GTgears

That car won't have thermal reactors. It's too early.

Also, number bring thrown around once it is sorted are a bit low. Back on its feet it is a $30-35k car. The $25k number I put out there is what someone in Europe would pay for it right now if the miles can be verified, the interior and paint are good, and it is really a rust free car. Others are calling it $25k running and driving. Any middie without original paint and interior that doesn't need rust repair that runs and drives today, with under 100k miles is over $30k.

spanky

This is my 75 that you see in my post. It was in pristine show car condition which is what the PO was doing when i took ownership 11 yrs ago and I paid him $15,000 no questions asked. I drive it on long trips and vacation runs and have picked up a few small rock chips in the paint along the way., I could care less about showing it but have taken very very good care of it in every way possible including a complete engine rebuild to correct the 2.7 known head stud pulling problem. I will never sell it but im thinking it value is now between $22,000/ $25,000 easily.