any tips for changing oil line thermostat
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
any tips for changing oil line thermostat
long story short
whoever had my car before assembled the oil lines incorrectly going to the thermostat (from the engine and the oil cooler tank) and put the bottom line on first, then the top line resulting in placing the bolt to the thermostat on a slight angle stripping the threads.
so I have to change the top line running from the engine to the oil cooler line thermostat and the thermostat itself.
Question is any hints or tips for changing this? I have two lines off already on the front.
My plan was use PB blast and spray real good twice and let sit 1-2 days while my parts come.
some suggested heating the bolt with a torch.
any tips hints suggestions?
whoever had my car before assembled the oil lines incorrectly going to the thermostat (from the engine and the oil cooler tank) and put the bottom line on first, then the top line resulting in placing the bolt to the thermostat on a slight angle stripping the threads.
so I have to change the top line running from the engine to the oil cooler line thermostat and the thermostat itself.
Question is any hints or tips for changing this? I have two lines off already on the front.
My plan was use PB blast and spray real good twice and let sit 1-2 days while my parts come.
some suggested heating the bolt with a torch.
any tips hints suggestions?
#2
Instructor
Before you ruin the thermostat housing, cut the nuts with a dremel. Of course means replacing the oil lines afterwards but if I read correctly you are only talking about the ones going to the engine and those are not too expensive to replace.
#3
Racer
Thread Starter
All done, i soaked it with pb blaster then heated up the nuts with a torch and used the whole tank
Threads were stripped on the thermostat, the lines must be placed in by hand perfectly straight then another person hand hightens the nuts then use a wrench 36mm
Safest way to do this
Jack stand under rear right tortion bar cover
I jacked it up under rear sway bar felt safer then the motor
http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarti...Jacking_Up.htm
Threads were stripped on the thermostat, the lines must be placed in by hand perfectly straight then another person hand hightens the nuts then use a wrench 36mm
Safest way to do this
Jack stand under rear right tortion bar cover
I jacked it up under rear sway bar felt safer then the motor
http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarti...Jacking_Up.htm
#5
Racer
Thread Starter
Yes it needed a new thermostat
The leak was at the line conecting the engine to the thermostat
Only upon running
Once i took the line off i saw whoever changed that line, stripped the thread on the thermostat the bolt was not on correctly up on a slight angle
Then they used thread lock and jb welt so the leak was slight
The lines were not even mounted, it was off
So i changed both
Checked all lines the cooler in the front ect
Had to tighten the cooler drainage bolt on the top
So now everything is correctly done
When using a torch on the nuts be-careful of the oil lines oils flamable lol
Use a small torch
Heat the bolts only
It will smoke beware
When placing the lines make sure there 100% straight hold in then have another hand tighten the bolts 2 people
Bolts are there just to hold the lines in straight to the thermostat think of it in those therms
Quick question iceman my temp guages sits around 3/4 of the way up hughway city ect, after a longer drive 1982 only marks lines no numbers on the Guage old style
More info - im about 1-2 quarts short of oil 20/50
Just wanna double check it dident wanna over fill
Was only 1 -45 min drive with a decent amount of idling
The leak was at the line conecting the engine to the thermostat
Only upon running
Once i took the line off i saw whoever changed that line, stripped the thread on the thermostat the bolt was not on correctly up on a slight angle
Then they used thread lock and jb welt so the leak was slight
The lines were not even mounted, it was off
So i changed both
Checked all lines the cooler in the front ect
Had to tighten the cooler drainage bolt on the top
So now everything is correctly done
When using a torch on the nuts be-careful of the oil lines oils flamable lol
Use a small torch
Heat the bolts only
It will smoke beware
When placing the lines make sure there 100% straight hold in then have another hand tighten the bolts 2 people
Bolts are there just to hold the lines in straight to the thermostat think of it in those therms
Quick question iceman my temp guages sits around 3/4 of the way up hughway city ect, after a longer drive 1982 only marks lines no numbers on the Guage old style
More info - im about 1-2 quarts short of oil 20/50
Just wanna double check it dident wanna over fill
Was only 1 -45 min drive with a decent amount of idling
#6
Team Owner
Something is wrong
No way it should be that high
First mark only. Mine has NRVER past the halfway mark in 8 years.
Maybe if you lived on the Arizona desert but that does not sound right to me.
But let's not panic.
Do you have a pic of what the guage looks like. ?
Let's make sure we are talking about the same thing
Also top up the oil and get all that sorted first. You need enough oil to cool
Are the oil cool lines to the front unbearably hot ?
No way it should be that high
First mark only. Mine has NRVER past the halfway mark in 8 years.
Maybe if you lived on the Arizona desert but that does not sound right to me.
But let's not panic.
Do you have a pic of what the guage looks like. ?
Let's make sure we are talking about the same thing
Also top up the oil and get all that sorted first. You need enough oil to cool
Are the oil cool lines to the front unbearably hot ?
#7
Racer
Thread Starter
i checked the whole system plus a nice long drive yesterday,
i live in nyc so its 60-70 degs about now not hot.
oil lines were not super super hot.
I was ideling alot the first day with about 1 quart of oil short.
its been staying at 1/2 way
i'll take a pic of the guage.
When i got the car, the temp guage was not working, I refused to drive the car until i had it working
long story stort it was the wiring to the guage, it had a tear to the hot wire.
i live in nyc so its 60-70 degs about now not hot.
oil lines were not super super hot.
I was ideling alot the first day with about 1 quart of oil short.
its been staying at 1/2 way
i'll take a pic of the guage.
When i got the car, the temp guage was not working, I refused to drive the car until i had it working
long story stort it was the wiring to the guage, it had a tear to the hot wire.
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#8
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Not sure how much help this tech article will be, but maybe take a peak at it. Hopefully you get things figured out with this car!
-Luccia
-Luccia
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#9
Team Owner
yeah half way up the guage if you have the correct guage and sender is not correct for Norh East this time of year.Wonder if even the internal themostat is binding or not working ( as you know these car have two )
#10
Racer
Thread Starter
Ok with excessive idleing i stay at 3/4 up.
with driving stop go idle ect. it stays at half,
Im pretty sure the guage is acurate since it feels warm and i rewired everything up myself and changed the sending unit.
I'll post up a pic.
note when i replaced my alternator
the air guide on the back 1 of the two fins was missing.
with driving stop go idle ect. it stays at half,
Im pretty sure the guage is acurate since it feels warm and i rewired everything up myself and changed the sending unit.
I'll post up a pic.
note when i replaced my alternator
the air guide on the back 1 of the two fins was missing.
#12
Team Owner
that is WAAAY off
that engine is NOT cooling
would depend on excessive idling but that really concerns me , if you are running like that routinely i would install a Carrera cooler and fan .
waht about just cruising along on even a city street ? should not be more than a needle width over the first mark.
I guess someone else in NY could comment
I cant remember if NyNick has an air cooled.
that engine is NOT cooling
would depend on excessive idling but that really concerns me , if you are running like that routinely i would install a Carrera cooler and fan .
waht about just cruising along on even a city street ? should not be more than a needle width over the first mark.
I guess someone else in NY could comment
I cant remember if NyNick has an air cooled.
#14
Addict
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
If you look way over to the left of the white marks on the temp gauge, you should see some temperature markings in Celsius. See this thread: https://rennlist.com/forums/911-foru...ure-gauge.html
That second white mark is 120C, or 248F. You don't want it up there even on a very hot day.
The thermostat you replaced should start to open at 180F, which is below the first white mark (90C or 194F). The lines to the front cooler should be very, very hot. Are the metal lines under the passenger door crushed by any chance? You might want to try an infrared thermometer to check the temp of the line to the thermostat from the engine, and then the line from the thermostat to the front cooler. If the line to the front cooler is not hot, it is either crushed so oil will not flow, or there is likely something wrong with the thermostat and it's not opening properly.
Mark
That second white mark is 120C, or 248F. You don't want it up there even on a very hot day.
The thermostat you replaced should start to open at 180F, which is below the first white mark (90C or 194F). The lines to the front cooler should be very, very hot. Are the metal lines under the passenger door crushed by any chance? You might want to try an infrared thermometer to check the temp of the line to the thermostat from the engine, and then the line from the thermostat to the front cooler. If the line to the front cooler is not hot, it is either crushed so oil will not flow, or there is likely something wrong with the thermostat and it's not opening properly.
Mark