OverBoosted28

Looking at helping my brother in law find car. Both of these are 86's and he's thinking of the red one. As per the owner who has had both cars since about 93, states the AC "lines leak" and won't hold freon. Don't think engine has had any work. Normal layer of oil on bottom of case and looks as though it's never been apart. Doesn't appear to have any major issues. My question(s) would be, what should we expect to need done, either immed. or soon. Known issues that we should look for/expect to arise. I know my 993TT inside and out. This car is a little different :-)
Sorry for the vague and long winded inquiry, but would really like to help my brother in law get a good car and be able to help him keep it healthy.
Thanks in advance for any insight/help.
Aloha
Richard

Drisump

Hey OB, valve guides, broken head studs, and worn tranny's are the potential big ticket items on these cars. The bottom end seems to rarely cause problems at that mileage. As I've posted before, my car at 105k miles burns a quart every 2500 miles and I know a guy in Seattle that has over 400k on his 84 DD. These are robust engines! The suspension may require bushings, shocks and some attention to shift linkages/clutch. Quite possibly there are problems with the heating, A/C and small electrical gremlins (cruise, fog lights, power seats/windows). IMHO a great, solid platform is what you and your BIL should look for in these cars. A sound body, and a budget to do a top end and/or tranny rebuild within 30k miles. You may go beyond that (and maybe way beyond that!), but realistically a buyer should face that possibility. Anyway good luck to you and your BIL.

OverBoosted28

Thanks for the above (and previous) insight. Where is the AC condensor? It's apparently not buried behind the gas tank like my 993. The owner believed the AC lines leaked. What are the usual suspects for the AC on these cars? It gets to 110-115 easily, at times here in the Central Valley. I know the AC units on these is nominal at best, but it'd be a plus to have at least something that worked. Just an FYI there's not a Porsche tech in the area and the closest I'd trust is 45-60 minutes away. Engine looks really accessible compared to mine, so most things I'll be able to handle, but don't want to play "where's Waldo" with AC woes, gremlins and such.

Tremelune

To say the AC is nominal at best is generous. You're looking to $3k to install a modern system that will keep you cool in the worst conditions. Anything less really seems to be a constant struggle.

Everyone has an anecdote, but I don't think you're going to find many 3.2s for sale with AC that will keep you cool...I would not call that a deal-breaker by any means.

PDACPA

The AC was the old R-12. Many were converted to R-134. However, my understanding is the freon leaks due to the lines. To get the AC up to par, all new lines need to be run as well as overhaul the system. Just like Tremelune said $3k roughly.

Look at the engine and to the right you will see the AC (has its own belt).

Drisump

I have to say I know very little about the A/C. I've never used mine...funny eh? The stock A/C has two condensers, the huge one mounted on the engine cover and one located in the very front of the car. The reservoir is in the left front wheel well, which is also where the the receiver/dryer is located. As you've heard, rumour has it that the stock A/C isn't worth much time to fiddle with. Cheers

oprevot

I have an 86' as well. I replaced all the A/C lines last year. They were the original ones and most of them were rotted. I have a new compressor, evaporator, R-134 conversion, etc.... I live in Houston and here is my take on the overall performance of the system: It works okay as long the outside temperature is less than 85ish. Anything above that, and the whole thing is rubbish.

JCP911S

The elephant in the room is do you want a coupe or a targa?

The coupe is a more solid and IMHO, more attractive (BTW, I have both).

The targa give you the option of top-down driving, but at the expense of more noise, and maintenance, as the top seals inevitably leak and need to be replaced periodically.

Typically, there is little difference in price between the two, so as long as they re both in similar condition, its just a matter of preference.

I would not consider A/C to be a deciding factor in the decision. Some of us just disconnect it, and some spend the $$$ to make it work... but this is not a mission-critical system.

Engine, body, gearbox, and upholstery are really the major expense items on these cars, so get a good PPI.

race911

Above posts have mentioned where. But on the 964/993 it's in front of the left front wheel. The evaporator (by necessity) is adjacent to the passenger compartment. While stashed in the old gas heater (aka smuggler's box) on a torsion bar car, it's no picnic to get to...........

Back to the car. If I've understood other posts on this car it will be acquired under market. I wouldn't look a gift horse in the mouth in today's world. But if even that is pushing the buyer past what he should be spending on a car (and I always recommend purchase price + 50% on "cheap" 911s), best to not just get the car for the sake of having a 911 then being only able to can kick it from one patch job to the next.

gerry100

Many who HPDE these cars take out the compressor to save weight.

Mine still stock in my '86, AC at best weak dehumidifier. haven't turned it on in years.

Mine has 124K, at 106k I put $7k into headstuds,valve guides,rings , new clutch , 2nd gear synchos etc. Now runs like a thouroghbred.

People love and keep these cars running forever which means parts wear out that that most vehicles don't outlive.

mk85911

Did the R 134 upgrade a few years ago. Followed the official Porsche procedure which involved replacing the receiver/drier and fittings, IIRC. Didn't do lines, which results in need to recharge every year or so. As noted above, basically a dehumidifer, but that's necessary if you drive in the rain.

Mine is a '85 which I have owned since new and has about 110k. Amazing durability. Minimal oil consumption. And I have found that nothing rejuvenates performance more than new spark plug wires, which I replace every other major maintenance.

gerry100

..and pop in a new rotor when you do the wires

gerry100

and a Dizzy cap

OverBoosted28

Gerry, can you advise on which plugs to buy? I'm helping my brother in law pick it up and would like to do the plug wires, plugs, dizzy/rotor caps. If you could list which plugs would be the best bet. Would you get the 8mm plug wires? Gettin it for 20k and there's no real obvious issues. I will help with anything he needs done to it. It looks so much easier to work on than my TT. So much more room. :-). Can't wait, something more to work on.

Starbuckslova1

those cars are alot easier to work on then your car.

For me I'd check the oil tube/ lines under the motor.

oil lines to front if theres a front engine oil cooler.

wiring to all guage's some just corrode. normal but happens minimal

id really clean out the gas tank if he doesent drive it alot, fuel filter simple stuff.

i'd avoid all platinum plugs and stick with copper

use BP6et NGK plugs or
NGK V-Power plugs

beru wires

due to the heat there i'd make sure your cool, oil lines not leaking ect.

cap is always a good idea with the wires.

when i pull the plugs look at the plugs closely this will give you a hint how the engines running.

gears and syncro's as well.