A bit of an update
#62
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Thread Starter
The old seal was as brittle as it could be. It snapped the second I put a pick on it to pry it out. Everything is back together and all seems dry.
Now what?
Now what?
#65
I haddah Google dat
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
You only need the thin wrench for the final steps after everything is re-assembled. It's not a difficult project really. You can go ahead with re-indexing, and then you'll be ready for the final adjustment when the wrench arrives. You'll move the inner torsion bar spline up one and the outer spline on the torsion bar cover down one. This will raise the unsupported spring plate up around an inch and a half. The eccentric bolts will give you about 3/4" travel. The difficult adjustment is toe, not ride height.
#66
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Thread Starter
You only need the thin wrench for the final steps after everything is re-assembled. It's not a difficult project really. You can go ahead with re-indexing, and then you'll be ready for the final adjustment when the wrench arrives. You'll move the inner torsion bar spline up one and the outer spline on the torsion bar cover down one. This will raise the unsupported spring plate up around an inch and a half. The eccentric bolts will give you about 3/4" travel. The difficult adjustment is toe, not ride height.
http://www.longacreracing.com/catalo...id=152&catid=5
Use them all the time. Did my own front end after the turbo tie-rod ends. When 911Design wanted $500 for an alignment, I said no, did some searching, and fell in love. Guessing LFB will chime in again.
#67
Rennlist Member
Doug, too bad I'm traveling. On my home computer, I have a very detailed step by step home alignment write-up, diagrams, specs-settings, and all. If you don't get it done prior-send me a reminder next Tues night. I'm in TX, Minnesota, Daytona and Austin again, between now and then.
#68
I haddah Google dat
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Doug, do not use the thin wrench to loosen the eccentric nuts. Take the spring plate off, and use impact sockets and penetrating oil. The thin wrench is good only for adjusting, not loosening frozen nuts. I think I mentioned this already before.
#69
I haddah Google dat
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
DB, the thin ride height wrench doesn't replace steel impact sockets. Be sure to loosen the eccentrics with the impact wrench, then "center" them. Mark the lobes location with a steel punch and a paint mark on the dimple. This will greatly help to set ride height, and don't forget to scribe reference marks on the tub from the unsupported spring plates.
And in your travels, let me know if you spot a Ruf sport muffler with a valance for twin exhaust tailpipes.
And in your travels, let me know if you spot a Ruf sport muffler with a valance for twin exhaust tailpipes.
#70
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Thread Starter
Man, you are a dark cloud on a sunny day.
So this $30 tool is crap? I don't know if I should or ...
That decides it then. I'm adjusting the valves, taking it in for smog, then booking a room in Carlsbad......looking like the stink bug she is.
So this $30 tool is crap? I don't know if I should or ...
That decides it then. I'm adjusting the valves, taking it in for smog, then booking a room in Carlsbad......looking like the stink bug she is.
#73
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Thread Starter
#74
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Thread Starter
My brother was looking for something to do today so I told him to get busy on the splitter.
going with birch ply that isn't quite 2mm thick. He's got both sides screwed together so they are identical after the belt sanding.
Not sure if I'm going to go with 2-1/2" or 3" lip.
....that, and I ordered some 28mm Tbars for the rear.
going with birch ply that isn't quite 2mm thick. He's got both sides screwed together so they are identical after the belt sanding.
Not sure if I'm going to go with 2-1/2" or 3" lip.
....that, and I ordered some 28mm Tbars for the rear.