A bit of an update
01-18-2014, 03:26 PM
#47
I haddah Google dat
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
DB, try this search term:
site:forums.pelicanparts.com "triangle of death"
This term was coined by our own esteemed Draco (Jim) and I began using it to ease future searches.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsc...ping-list.html
You will find a lot of good reading using these search terms. You might also add my user name. Somewhere I did an illustration showing why the oil hits the exhaust cross pipe when leaks originate here.
Change both the oil pressure warning light sensor (cheap) and the thermostat o-ring. I find that the green viton o-ring is superior to the red Porsche one, but there are inferior viton o-rings on the market, so be careful.
This is a ten minute job, once the cleaning is done. Try using aerosol "electronic parts cleaner" which is kinder to plastic than brake cleaner. Or use isopropyl 90% and a clean cotton rag on final cleanup. Use a 24mm deep socket for the sensor.
I use a chrome vanadium allen key from Sears tool department to adjust the eccentric bolts. Works well enough for me.
site:forums.pelicanparts.com "triangle of death"
This term was coined by our own esteemed Draco (Jim) and I began using it to ease future searches.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsc...ping-list.html
You will find a lot of good reading using these search terms. You might also add my user name. Somewhere I did an illustration showing why the oil hits the exhaust cross pipe when leaks originate here.
Change both the oil pressure warning light sensor (cheap) and the thermostat o-ring. I find that the green viton o-ring is superior to the red Porsche one, but there are inferior viton o-rings on the market, so be careful.
This is a ten minute job, once the cleaning is done. Try using aerosol "electronic parts cleaner" which is kinder to plastic than brake cleaner. Or use isopropyl 90% and a clean cotton rag on final cleanup. Use a 24mm deep socket for the sensor.
I use a chrome vanadium allen key from Sears tool department to adjust the eccentric bolts. Works well enough for me.
01-18-2014, 07:28 PM
#49
Addict
Thread Starter
DB, try this search term:
site:forums.pelicanparts.com "triangle of death"
This term was coined by our own esteemed Draco (Jim) and I began using it to ease future searches.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsc...ping-list.html
You will find a lot of good reading using these search terms. You might also add my user name. Somewhere I did an illustration showing why the oil hits the exhaust cross pipe when leaks originate here.
Change both the oil pressure warning light sensor (cheap) and the thermostat o-ring. I find that the green viton o-ring is superior to the red Porsche one, but there are inferior viton o-rings on the market, so be careful.
This is a ten minute job, once the cleaning is done. Try using aerosol "electronic parts cleaner" which is kinder to plastic than brake cleaner. Or use isopropyl 90% and a clean cotton rag on final cleanup. Use a 24mm deep socket for the sensor.
I use a chrome vanadium allen key from Sears tool department to adjust the eccentric bolts. Works well enough for me.
site:forums.pelicanparts.com "triangle of death"
This term was coined by our own esteemed Draco (Jim) and I began using it to ease future searches.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsc...ping-list.html
You will find a lot of good reading using these search terms. You might also add my user name. Somewhere I did an illustration showing why the oil hits the exhaust cross pipe when leaks originate here.
Change both the oil pressure warning light sensor (cheap) and the thermostat o-ring. I find that the green viton o-ring is superior to the red Porsche one, but there are inferior viton o-rings on the market, so be careful.
This is a ten minute job, once the cleaning is done. Try using aerosol "electronic parts cleaner" which is kinder to plastic than brake cleaner. Or use isopropyl 90% and a clean cotton rag on final cleanup. Use a 24mm deep socket for the sensor.
I use a chrome vanadium allen key from Sears tool department to adjust the eccentric bolts. Works well enough for me.
Placed the seals, then positioned the cooler, put on the washers and some new nuts, returned S hose, put ducting and tinware back in, put the fuel rail back on, dumped 5 quarts of 20-50 in the oil tank, put the K&N on, squirted everything down with engine bright, hosed it all down, blasted with 125# of air till everything was dry, tapped the key and she fired right up.
Dry as can be.
Loren, you are in the business, of course you have the tools of the trade. I'm a packaging salesman. All my Snap On came to me via pawn shops. 
What??? Little Dougie has Snap On in that shed of his? Holy Crap, drawer two looks just like drawer one.
01-18-2014, 08:51 PM
#50
Addict
Thread Starter
OK, party may be over. It seems to still be leaking. I'm gonna do what rusnak says and replace the rest of the seals up there. Can't believe how well she runs.
This is the guy that is really the crowning jewel in my tool box. My 3/8 drive Precision Instruments torque wrench. Yes, that's most all snap on around it.
This is the guy that is really the crowning jewel in my tool box. My 3/8 drive Precision Instruments torque wrench. Yes, that's most all snap on around it.
01-18-2014, 09:54 PM
#51
Rennlist Member
Douglas, with all the bling, and the fact you'd had all the intake off a few years ago, I'm amazed you'd not done any of this. If you're puking oil up there all of a sudden, I'd bet on the t-stat O-ring. If nobody local has viton version, my guess is Henry at Supertec will. He's probably got a minimum, but I bet if you drove down, he'd sell one for a couple of $. It is well worth the visit, to see his shop and work in progress.
01-18-2014, 10:06 PM
#52
Addict
Thread Starter
Douglas, with all the bling, and the fact you'd had all the intake off a few years ago, I'm amazed you'd not done any of this. If you're puking oil up there all of a sudden, I'd bet on the t-stat O-ring. If nobody local has viton version, my guess is Henry at Supertec will. He's probably got a minimum, but I bet if you drove down, he'd sell one for a couple of $. It is well worth the visit, to see his shop and work in progress.
CPR?
01-18-2014, 10:09 PM
#54
Rennlist Member
First call Monday is going to be to Einmalig. If they don't have it then http://www.supertecperformance.com/ is next on the list. Are they in the same complex as CPR?
CPR?
01-18-2014, 10:29 PM
#55
Addict
Thread Starter
Last time I saw peacocks I was in Vaccaville circa 1984. May be worth the trip. 
....and I have no idea why I haven't done this already. Should be a quick in and out once the seal is in hand. Jack stands were so freakin' high today it was all I could do to reach back there. Front plate was almost touching the ground.
....and I have no idea why I haven't done this already. Should be a quick in and out once the seal is in hand. Jack stands were so freakin' high today it was all I could do to reach back there. Front plate was almost touching the ground.
01-18-2014, 10:32 PM
#56
Addict
Thread Starter
I want to see your motor looking like the one in this thread:
https://rennlist.com/forums/993-foru...-sapphire.html
https://rennlist.com/forums/993-foru...-sapphire.html
I think I posted in that thread.
01-19-2014, 01:00 AM
#57
I haddah Google dat
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Don't forget the oil pressure warning light sensor. In fact, buy two and keep a spare in the trunk. They blow like a geyser when they go bad.
01-19-2014, 11:55 AM
#58
Addict
Thread Starter
I took some before / after shots when I fired her up last night that didn't impress me when I was out in the light of day. This morning, with the low morning light, they tell a very different story. Quickly emailed them to my desktop and yep. OIL. This is much better news than thinking I dropped a seal on the cooler.
Just may do a valve adjustment today if things go as planned. Gasket set has been collecting dust for at least two years.
999.707.314.40
911.606.230.00
This is much better news than thinking I dropped a seal on the cooler. Just may do a valve adjustment today if things go as planned. Gasket set has been collecting dust for at least two years.
999.707.314.40
911.606.230.00
01-19-2014, 09:09 PM
#60
Addict
Thread Starter
Easy in place. With no heater blower, no airbox, no cruise, and no A/C it will be about 10 minutes in and out. Hope I have the right tools.
Normal stock 3,2 engine bay, removing the airbox would give sufficient access. Dropping the engine 3" would make it even easier. Ya know, removing the lower airbox nuts and brace nut and leaving it attached to the AFM and undoing the hose clamp to remove the AFM and airbox as a unit may be easier than removing the airbox by its self.
Today I ended up helping my brother. He is distraught over a blown head gasket on his Turbo Diesel King Ranch.
and no, I ain't gonna do that job. 
I think I will do the thermostat and upper valves in one go, then lower valves and swap in manual flapper boxes another time. I have almost everything ready for the manual heat backdate.
Normal stock 3,2 engine bay, removing the airbox would give sufficient access. Dropping the engine 3" would make it even easier. Ya know, removing the lower airbox nuts and brace nut and leaving it attached to the AFM and undoing the hose clamp to remove the AFM and airbox as a unit may be easier than removing the airbox by its self.
Today I ended up helping my brother. He is distraught over a blown head gasket on his Turbo Diesel King Ranch.
and no, I ain't gonna do that job. I think I will do the thermostat and upper valves in one go, then lower valves and swap in manual flapper boxes another time. I have almost everything ready for the manual heat backdate.