Cost to fix some typical 911 issues?
06-16-2013, 02:52 AM
#1
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Cost to fix some typical 911 issues?
I think the only common issues of any consequence is potential premature valve guide wear and broken head studs.
Also, what is the typical cost of a full clutch rebuild?
What about the "top end rebuild"?
06-16-2013, 12:39 PM
#2
A top end would take care of valve guides and the stud issue...so it makes sense to find a car that has a verifiable top end done at some point.
6k+- for a complete top end...studs, valves, valve guides, rings, etc, etc.
I just bought a clutch unit, basket, clutch throw out for about $460. Check your shift bushings and coupler first tho.
6k+- for a complete top end...studs, valves, valve guides, rings, etc, etc.
I just bought a clutch unit, basket, clutch throw out for about $460. Check your shift bushings and coupler first tho.
06-16-2013, 01:55 PM
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Ok, so a top-end rebuild is a huge plus since it's a $6k job. Conversely, buying a $15k 911, one must be aware that they could easily be in the hole for another $10k if the major things go like clutch, top end, etc.
What if you didn't need a full top-end, but just the valve problem? What's that generally run?
What if you didn't need a full top-end, but just the valve problem? What's that generally run?
06-16-2013, 03:07 PM
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Got this from a 1989 964 for sale:
Date Service Mileage
1/24/08 Performance chip 114,498 $1,883.50
K&N air filter kit
Installation of 993 aero electric mirrors
3/2/09 O2 sensor replaced 121,320 $286.20
7/4/09 Replaced all 4 rotors, front & rear brakes 126,450 $1,887.93
adjust valves, replace coil/rotors & caps
4/12/10 Complete motor rebuild 134,360 $7,961.15
3/15/11 Replaced Power Steering Pump, 142,886 $301
belt, hose and fluid
6/11/11 Valves adjusted, gaskets replaced, 148,040 $615.00
horns replaced
6/25/11 New clutch, alternator 149,300 $2,844.00
new tires, front brakes
Date Service Mileage
1/24/08 Performance chip 114,498 $1,883.50
K&N air filter kit
Installation of 993 aero electric mirrors
3/2/09 O2 sensor replaced 121,320 $286.20
7/4/09 Replaced all 4 rotors, front & rear brakes 126,450 $1,887.93
adjust valves, replace coil/rotors & caps
4/12/10 Complete motor rebuild 134,360 $7,961.15
3/15/11 Replaced Power Steering Pump, 142,886 $301
belt, hose and fluid
6/11/11 Valves adjusted, gaskets replaced, 148,040 $615.00
horns replaced
6/25/11 New clutch, alternator 149,300 $2,844.00
new tires, front brakes
Last edited by PushingMyLuck; 06-17-2013 at 08:10 PM.
06-16-2013, 03:20 PM
#5
If you are just replacing valve guides it is still spendy...you still pull the valve train/top end and if the mileage is high enough it is a false economy not to replace older dilivar with new studs, check the rings, chain, sprockets, ramps, seats-valves etc.
You are still looking at big dough.
Example...I have an '83 SC that I purchased with 215K totally unopened motor...had a good PPI with great leak down and it drove great...good pull. It did burn oil at a rate of abt 1 qt to 600 miles (not uncommon at all in high miles cars or cars driven hard..some guys will use a qt in a good motor on a track day. I put 15k care free miles on it and it may have gone another 100k, who knows.
I kept my eye out for another motor as I knew, at some pt a rebuild would be in my future as I drive it daily....if it was a weekend car only I may have just kept it as it ran so well but I put 10-12k miles a year on.
A total rebuild, top/bottom on a 930-16 is 12k to start and higher if there are 'issues'...bad jug or piston etc....there are always an issue or two.
Now we are talking what I paid for the car.
I found a newly rebuilt 930-10 ROW (more HP and torque) with SSI's in place for less than half that price. Much cheaper but now the car is not serial number correct but IMHO a much better car.
My '83, that had been well maint and items replaced when needed, drives like a brand new Porsche. I'm still under 20k invested.
So, pay a bit more for the work done or buy low and have a plan.....
You are still looking at big dough.
Example...I have an '83 SC that I purchased with 215K totally unopened motor...had a good PPI with great leak down and it drove great...good pull. It did burn oil at a rate of abt 1 qt to 600 miles (not uncommon at all in high miles cars or cars driven hard..some guys will use a qt in a good motor on a track day. I put 15k care free miles on it and it may have gone another 100k, who knows.
I kept my eye out for another motor as I knew, at some pt a rebuild would be in my future as I drive it daily....if it was a weekend car only I may have just kept it as it ran so well but I put 10-12k miles a year on.
A total rebuild, top/bottom on a 930-16 is 12k to start and higher if there are 'issues'...bad jug or piston etc....there are always an issue or two.
Now we are talking what I paid for the car.
I found a newly rebuilt 930-10 ROW (more HP and torque) with SSI's in place for less than half that price. Much cheaper but now the car is not serial number correct but IMHO a much better car.
My '83, that had been well maint and items replaced when needed, drives like a brand new Porsche. I'm still under 20k invested.
So, pay a bit more for the work done or buy low and have a plan.....
06-16-2013, 03:24 PM
#6
There is no reputable shop that can do a 'complete' motor rebuild for 7k...none.....ask the pro's on this site.
MotorMeister may say and do that but the result is not what you want ...go to Pelican and search for "Those hurt by MotorMeister"....you might get a rebuild for that if you did all of the work yourself and paid for parts only.
MotorMeister may say and do that but the result is not what you want ...go to Pelican and search for "Those hurt by MotorMeister"....you might get a rebuild for that if you did all of the work yourself and paid for parts only.
06-16-2013, 04:40 PM
#7
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7k for "complete rebuild" even in 2010 is too low. Unless you have the detailed receipt for the work (including parts and machine work included, you have no idea what that means. From what I get from my pro, a complete build can easily cost $14k+. More if major problems or performance mods.
FWIW, in 2003, I had my valve guides replaced, Carrera tensioners installed and a new clutch (This did not include new rings, pistons or cylinders nor was the case split) and the shop I used charged me about $5k
FWIW, in 2003, I had my valve guides replaced, Carrera tensioners installed and a new clutch (This did not include new rings, pistons or cylinders nor was the case split) and the shop I used charged me about $5k
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06-16-2013, 07:52 PM
#9
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There is no reputable shop that can do a 'complete' motor rebuild for 7k...none.....ask the pro's on this site.
MotorMeister may say and do that but the result is not what you want ...go to Pelican and search for "Those hurt by MotorMeister"....you might get a rebuild for that if you did all of the work yourself and paid for parts only.
MotorMeister may say and do that but the result is not what you want ...go to Pelican and search for "Those hurt by MotorMeister"....you might get a rebuild for that if you did all of the work yourself and paid for parts only.
06-16-2013, 09:15 PM
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If you are just replacing valve guides it is still spendy...you still pull the valve train/top end and if the mileage is high enough it is a false economy not to replace older dilivar with new studs, check the rings, chain, sprockets, ramps, seats-valves etc.
You are still looking at big dough.
Example...I have an '83 SC that I purchased with 215K totally unopened motor...had a good PPI with great leak down and it drove great...good pull. It did burn oil at a rate of abt 1 qt to 600 miles (not uncommon at all in high miles cars or cars driven hard..some guys will use a qt in a good motor on a track day. I put 15k care free miles on it and it may have gone another 100k, who knows.
I kept my eye out for another motor as I knew, at some pt a rebuild would be in my future as I drive it daily....if it was a weekend car only I may have just kept it as it ran so well but I put 10-12k miles a year on.
A total rebuild, top/bottom on a 930-16 is 12k to start and higher if there are 'issues'...bad jug or piston etc....there are always an issue or two.
Now we are talking what I paid for the car.
I found a newly rebuilt 930-10 ROW (more HP and torque) with SSI's in place for less than half that price. Much cheaper but now the car is not serial number correct but IMHO a much better car.
My '83, that had been well maint and items replaced when needed, drives like a brand new Porsche. I'm still under 20k invested.
So, pay a bit more for the work done or buy low and have a plan.....
You are still looking at big dough.
Example...I have an '83 SC that I purchased with 215K totally unopened motor...had a good PPI with great leak down and it drove great...good pull. It did burn oil at a rate of abt 1 qt to 600 miles (not uncommon at all in high miles cars or cars driven hard..some guys will use a qt in a good motor on a track day. I put 15k care free miles on it and it may have gone another 100k, who knows.
I kept my eye out for another motor as I knew, at some pt a rebuild would be in my future as I drive it daily....if it was a weekend car only I may have just kept it as it ran so well but I put 10-12k miles a year on.
A total rebuild, top/bottom on a 930-16 is 12k to start and higher if there are 'issues'...bad jug or piston etc....there are always an issue or two.
Now we are talking what I paid for the car.
I found a newly rebuilt 930-10 ROW (more HP and torque) with SSI's in place for less than half that price. Much cheaper but now the car is not serial number correct but IMHO a much better car.
My '83, that had been well maint and items replaced when needed, drives like a brand new Porsche. I'm still under 20k invested.
So, pay a bit more for the work done or buy low and have a plan.....
Can someone make a list of everything that is covered in a proper $15k engine rebuild?
That list will come in handy when assessing the completeness of supposed "rebuild" claims (which might just be a partial poor man's rebuild)
Also, if rebuilds cost $15k, why don't people just drop in a new crate motor?? Isn't that WAY cheaper?
06-16-2013, 10:24 PM
#12
Like Ice said...ain't no such thingy.
A Porsche flat six is the closest thing to an aircraft motor you'll find on the ground. It is made of very precise alloy castings, forged (nikies) pistons in a hemi head, exacting tolerances etc. and is very robust if cared for.
It also drives differently in a very sweet and addicting way.
The bottom end on a 3.0/3.2 liter are known to last for 300 to 500k....I know mechanics that have pulled cranks after 400k and the tolerances were within spec, polish and replace with stock sized bearings......
How many 30 year old sports cars are running 'strong' after 250k miles. My 3.0 had 230k miles on it and ran strong up to redline and thrived at 120-130 mph.
Look for a 3.0/3.2 with a recent top end and lower miles on the bottom...100k-125k. Get a solid PPI and drive the hell out of it (after prop warm up).
A Porsche flat six is the closest thing to an aircraft motor you'll find on the ground. It is made of very precise alloy castings, forged (nikies) pistons in a hemi head, exacting tolerances etc. and is very robust if cared for.
It also drives differently in a very sweet and addicting way.
The bottom end on a 3.0/3.2 liter are known to last for 300 to 500k....I know mechanics that have pulled cranks after 400k and the tolerances were within spec, polish and replace with stock sized bearings......
How many 30 year old sports cars are running 'strong' after 250k miles. My 3.0 had 230k miles on it and ran strong up to redline and thrived at 120-130 mph.
Look for a 3.0/3.2 with a recent top end and lower miles on the bottom...100k-125k. Get a solid PPI and drive the hell out of it (after prop warm up).
