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Old 02-10-2016, 12:13 AM
  #481  
Amber Gramps
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Originally Posted by Wachuko
Okay. I guess that I should replace the bushings as well while I am there...


I confirmed that the shocks are all Sports... not HD... I wonder what the combination of 21F/28R Torsion Bars with Sports shocks instead of HD would do to the car handling... The struts inserts and rear shocks are fairly new... so makes no sense to change them at this time... And forget about sending them to get them re-valved... the cost is the same, or more, than just buying the HD units Comments?
May be your lucky day. I've got a set of HD's with your name on them that may as well be new. BUT, don't you want Sports with bars that heavy?

What else is on your list? Any interest in a set (20) of open steel lug nuts from SMC that only have a couple thousand miles on them? Got some cool factory spacer too that screw onto the rear rotors like the rotors screw onto the hubs.
Old 02-10-2016, 12:43 AM
  #482  
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Originally Posted by amber lamps
May be your lucky day. I've got a set of HD's with your name on them that may as well be new. BUT, don't you want Sports with bars that heavy?

What else is on your list? Any interest in a set (20) of open steel lug nuts from SMC that only have a couple thousand miles on them? Got some cool factory spacer too that screw onto the rear rotors like the rotors screw onto the hubs.
I am getting all permutations of recommendations... when I ran the setup of 21F/28R in the Elephant Racing site, it suggested HD all around... On Pelican and here, in the searches I made, I saw that I should use HD insert up front and Sports in the back...and then I also got one that is running Sport in front and stock in back

Then there were these:

Originally Posted by Kuba
Bilstein HD (B6) units are typically very slightly softer than Sport (B8).

The main difference is the piston shaft of the sports units is shorter and allows lower ride height before bottoming out.
Originally Posted by SoCalSK8r
There's definitely a ton of opinions on this, for a street car I wouldn't worry about it to death. Pick one and move on. I doubt there's very many people here that have run both set ups.

I have not come across many (any?) threads where someone was disappointed in heir shock choice, so keep that in mind.
So I am thinking... fudge it! I will run what I have... It is for the street... maybe a DE here and there... but for the most part, it will not see the track...

What do you think?
Old 02-10-2016, 01:23 AM
  #483  
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I think I was disappointed in the HD's on my car when it was relatively stock everywhere else.

When I went to Sports, I first took them to Bilstien in Poway and had them rebuilt so I don't have an honest comparison. All I know is that now with new rods, seals, rubber, oil, valves, and coilovers they are killer stiff in comparison....Just the way I like them.

If you are going to run the car super low you can always leave out the bumpstops.
Old 02-10-2016, 08:12 AM
  #484  
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Originally Posted by amber lamps
I think I was disappointed in the HD's on my car when it was relatively stock everywhere else.

When I went to Sports, I first took them to Bilstien in Poway and had them rebuilt so I don't have an honest comparison. All I know is that now with new rods, seals, rubber, oil, valves, and coilovers they are killer stiff in comparison....Just the way I like them.

If you are going to run the car super low you can always leave out the bumpstops.
Okay then. I will go with what I have.
Old 02-10-2016, 02:17 PM
  #485  
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An explanation that I can understand!!!

Originally Posted by Driven97
Ok:

You've nearly doubled the spring rates from the factory settings. The rear is now slightly stiffer in relation to the front, which, everything else equal, should make the car under-steer a little less.

You'll be fine. Car will handle great. Shocks will likely be "close enough." Don't lower it too much. Don't worry so much. Drive and enjoy.
Originally Posted by Driven97


Here's percentages based off of 78-85 18.8/24.1 torsions.

21/28 is 166%/185% stiffer than OE.
Old 02-10-2016, 05:36 PM
  #486  
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Note to self... must keep a list of the part number and where it is going... Ordered a few bolts and forgot to document this and now I can't figure out where those go... back to the PET diagrams...

N-014-086-12 - Taping screw for the hood air vent grill frame
900-075-341-02 - Combination screw M6x25 for brake line 'T'
914-355-691-00 - Brake hose protectors (rubber sleeves that go around hard brake lines in secured brackets)
911-347-029-01 Needle roller bearing for steering rack
N-014-086-12 SCREW 3.5X13
900-910-046-02 (superseded by 999-084-445-01) - Nut M12x1.5 for the rear sway bar
900-082-035-02 Bolt M12x60 for rear sway bar
N-010-156-3 M12x70 for rear sway bar mount to chassis
N-010-239-11 M8x18 (superseded by N-010-239-30) bolt for rubber bushing for rear sway bar clamp
900-075-043-02 Hexagon bolt M10x30 for spring plate covers (8)
Old 02-10-2016, 11:40 PM
  #487  
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I hate it when I find something on the floor and can't figure out where it came from... and I can't blame my father-in-law... he is out visiting family (he would sometimes, just for the heck of it, put a bolt next to where I am working just to watch me try to figure out where it goes or why is left after the job is done)...

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Old 02-10-2016, 11:49 PM
  #488  
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Cool

Well... got longer and stronger bolts...

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And gave it a try again (yesterday night I could not remove the bearing races...)

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Look at that!

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Let's use the puller now...

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It is coming out!!

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Used a spacer from the bike for the rest of the travel... it was the perfect diameter

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Done!

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Old 02-11-2016, 09:54 AM
  #489  
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Originally Posted by amber lamps
May be your lucky day. I've got a set of HD's with your name on them that may as well be new. BUT, don't you want Sports with bars that heavy?

What else is on your list? Any interest in a set (20) of open steel lug nuts from SMC that only have a couple thousand miles on them? Got some cool factory spacer too that screw onto the rear rotors like the rotors screw onto the hubs.

Thank you for the offer!! If you could hold on to the HD stuff for a few months... just in case...
Old 02-11-2016, 11:46 PM
  #490  
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Rear-axle trailing arms removed.

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The inner pieces and rubber inserts were easy to remove... Now I need to press these out...

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Just got an email from Pelican that my order for the ER Bushings is delay because of some bolts that I added to the order....argghhh... those bolts I add just to take advantage of the order placed... and of course, I get the email at 10pm ET when they are gone and I can't tell them to take them out and ship... another day lost....

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Old 02-11-2016, 11:54 PM
  #491  
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Cool

The other task that I was going to do was to replace the master cylinder for a new 930 unit that came with the car... then I saw these videos and decided that this was a weekend task and not something I wanted to do during the week nights...







Old 02-12-2016, 01:30 AM
  #492  
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The next time you have to pull the races off your rear hubs, you know, in 35 years or so, use a 4" grinder to make a diagonal notch for a pointed cold chissle and smack it with a 3# BFH. Works like a charm. Cracks and expands enough to fall right off.

Edit: The videos make that look much harder than it really is. I swapped in my 930 M/C in a couple hours. Of course I don't have a fresh air box or that spaghetti ducting to deal with. Just don't sweat it.

Last edited by Amber Gramps; 02-12-2016 at 02:20 AM.
Old 02-12-2016, 10:44 AM
  #493  
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Originally Posted by amber lamps
The next time you have to pull the races off your rear hubs, you know, in 35 years or so, use a 4" grinder to make a diagonal notch for a pointed cold chissle and smack it with a 3# BFH. Works like a charm. Cracks and expands enough to fall right off.

Edit: The videos make that look much harder than it really is. I swapped in my 930 M/C in a couple hours. Of course I don't have a fresh air box or that spaghetti ducting to deal with. Just don't sweat it.
I don't have a lot of that stuff in the way either ...

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But it requires going inside the car, undoing the brake pedal, etc. With the car on the lift, opening the doors to do all that is not as easy... not with my non-slender figure at least, lol... so I was going to wait until the suspension was done, install the wheels back and roll it out for that...

Thinking about it some more... maybe a task for Daniel to help me with... he can do the stuff inside the car while I work in the front...
Old 02-12-2016, 01:06 PM
  #494  
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Cool

Elephant racing has a cool tool for removing the split bushings - Split Bushing Removal Tool but I don't feel like spending that kind of money (US$120.00)...

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I can see that tool being great for somebody doing this often... I will go the chisel and BFH route...
Old 02-12-2016, 07:40 PM
  #495  
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Jaime,

I just wanted to say how glued I am to this build thread (and as a result, your 912 build). My dad and I just rescued a '74 with a 3.2 from a guy's backyard where it sat for at least 5 yrs. We have begun the teardown and have been discussing colors. Original is Ice Green Metallic - yuk!, or do we go a period correct Porsche blue. I did a search for Aquamarine (Dad's favorite 356 color) and came across your thread. Not only is your car beautiful, but the thread will provide priceless to us as we restore the car to what we think it should be. I've already purchased TRE bumpers and a center filler kit! Aquamarine is definitely on the list (as is Arrow, Ossi, etc). Keep up the great work!

Greg
'76 BMW 2002 Pastellblau
'74 911 3.2 _____blau
'83 911 SC Slate Blue (dad's)
'56 IM Speedster Stone Gray (dad's)


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