Ed Hughes

Good luck and have fun!

irobertson

Things I have learned about blasting.
1) The air needs to be dry. I could only blast for about a half hour before the water content in the air stream got too high, then everything gets messy and the nozzle clogs up. I went and got a filter/dehumidifier and things work much better .
2) Always de-grease before blasting, otherwise the media gets contaminated. I had to clean out the cabinet and change out the media today.

Then back to cleaning.

irobertson

Well, back at it after a bit of a break. I was waiting on my cam sprocket tool to arrive.
I took the top end off half the engine this evening.
Things are looking good so far. Half the cross hatch is still visible in the cylinders, and the centre one on that side that has the broken stud has no sign of damage on the head or cylinder mating surfaces.
The cam and rockers look great, except for one small pit on the edge of one lobe. No uneven wear anywhere tho.
Tomorrow night, the other side comes apart.

irobertson

So this evening I got the cam and heads off the other side and all the Ps&Cs out.
Exhaust lobe on #5 has some pitting as well, but the rocker looks perfect, hmmm.

I gave splitting the case a go with a big piece of 4x4 wood and a hammer, whacking at it in some of the more sturdy places, but she wouldn't budge.
Any tips or tricks for getting these things to come apart?
And before you ask... yes I got the 3 bolts in the flywheel area, and the two in the oil cooler cavity.
Don't think I'm missing any hiding anywhere else.

Brett San Diego

And you got the 17 mm, I think, nut inside the case. If you got everything, then keep beating on it, ramping up the ferocity until you give up. I gave up and fabricated some spreaders that I put between studs on different case halves and between the fan housing mount bosses.

https://rennlist.com/forums/911-foru...nt-thread.html

It worked for me, but I did take some heat on Pelicanparts for endangering the case.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/911-e...worked-me.html

Maybe I dodged a bullet... I don't know. But, I do know that I don't feel my case would have separated with any degree of "tapping" (or beating) around it with anything.

Allan will probably respond, too. He certainly had an easier time than I did.

Brett

Ed Hughes

If the seal is factory, my guess is that the continued "beating" will throw enough shock at it to seperate the halves. Mine wasn't too stubborn.

500

+1 on the "hidden" nut in the timing chain area... That is easy to miss.

My experience was similar to Ed (and yes, my engine had not been disassembled before, so I only had to "fight" the factory loctite, not the crazy stuff that Brett had to deal with).

I tapped and tapped for a while, with nothing happening and I started to wonder what I had missed. But then, "all of the sudden" a gap opened between the case halves and I was on my way. Just keep patient and don't resort to any "nuclear" options, at least for a while yet!!

Good luck!

irobertson

Thanks all for pointing out the one nut I had missed.
I started this evening by cleaning up and taking some pics for the record of the top end pieces on the bench.
Then I went to work on splitting the case.
Inspired by Brett's case splitting widgets, I cam up with this one.
I placed my bottle jack between a set of studs one one half, and another set bolted to my engine stand. I figured I would put a bit of tension on the case before I started tapping on it. Once the slack was taken up, I gave it a couple of pumps and POP, it was apart. No tapping required!

The jack in position, and then after the split.

irobertson

A few of the pics I took this evening.

First - The heads 1-3 and 4-6. It's easy to see where my broken studs were on 3, 5 & 6.
Next - Rockers and lobes from intakes 2 and 6 showing pitting. All the others look fine.
Finally - One of the cylinder bores

More later.

Brett San Diego

Nice idea for spreading the case. Glad it worked easily.

Brett

irobertson

Making some headway on the P's & C's.
Pistons are all cleaned up, but the cylinders are taking some time to go through.

500

Nice! What are you using for the cleaning?

Brett San Diego

The charge to me was $12 per piston for cleaning at the machine shop, so you are saving some money, as long as your materials didn't cost $72. Do share your cleaning technique.

Brett

irobertson

Soaked them in engine cleaner for a spell, a day or so, then glass bead blasted them.
I also dropped off my valve and timing chain covers to be powder coated today.

theiceman

ian looked more like broken studs on 2, 5 and 6 not 3 five and 6 according to the pix unless i am missing something.

great work tho , hopefully we can meet up at Hershey for sure this year for a few minutes . I imagine you will be on the hunt for lots ..