dshepp806

Anybody here changed out a FPR on a 3.2L Carrera, engine in?

Curious (what a pain). Had a helluva time getting that bottom fuel line hose clamp off.....it was positioned at an angle that ONLY a very small offset screwdriver could get to,..took forever, she's loose finally and have her slid down the hose,.....left and right lines are disconnected, as is cacuum connection up top.

Now for the fun stuff: The only way I could see getting to the 24 MM mounting nut (at bottom of FPR) was with a 24 MM crowsfoot...project has been down due to my inabilitiy to find this tool in my toolbag (I had bought one long ago from Snep-On) .....spent the frikin morning (yesterday) attempting to find one locally, to no avail (No FLAPS had it,.....Lowes: no,.........Sears: no,............Harbor freight: no,.....decided to tear everything OUT of the dreaded bag,...and (lo' & behold) I found it...she fits perfectly,....the extension length allows for enough room to pull on it,..but she's not budging....presently in a 2 hour state of Kroil soak.....

While waiting, deciding how to get that damned lower hose loose from the nipple,..it's on there pretty good.....maybe prying downward (blindly)...I don't want to have to drop the hard side of this line going to the rail,..as this will involve dropping many "rail-related" things (as I can't get a wrench on it in the allotted space.......)

This is one helluva' place to be workin' in.......................back's killing me,..and the blood 'doth flow.....

Anywaze,..anybody here done it? ((((ENGINE IN))))

BEST!

Doyle

dshepp806

Just wanted follow-up on this particular endeavor...what a pain. Yes, it can be done without lowering the engine...finished it up this morning...as always, a second pass at this job will be much easier, now having jumped the presented hurdles...

I hate working with crowsfeet (on a long extension) to loosen tight nuts.....originally(8 days ago) , I had attempted to give this 24 mm nut (that mounts the FPR....) a go, as is, but found it too tight...so she was drenched in Kroil for a few hours,..the 2nd attempt still shows great tightness.....so I waited a few days,..letting it sit,..

Although slightly drizzling one day, I decided to try the spin again and this time had the FPR assembly turn...at least I knew that nut was now spinning! Let things stay as they were...hit it all AGAIN with LOTSA' Kroil...and walked away.

It had been ~ a week since I had revisited....I had the time scheduled for this morning to give it the last college try....decided to throw a dash of A.M. beer to the porsche Gods (before engagement),..opened the rear lid,..reached in to just get my reference points in the bottom are,..and,..lo' & behhold,..the damned 24 mm spun free by hand,.....a GOOD sign to start my morning. All else was uneventful, no gauges to check my pressures just yet,......again: she was checked 1 1/2 years ago and the pressures were within spec then (post fuel pump changeout),..yet I still wanna' know what where she is today WITHOUT a 22 year old FPR in her....she's running like a frikin champ...idle smooth (other than the normal expected movements),..still needs raising abit to hit the 880 RPM range..I'm sure it's time to get the mixture checked for baseline.

To my dearest DRACO: I'll be studying HOW I can dissect this removed (ORIGINAL) FPR for some forensic work.....with pics....as this relates to the other BG44K thread......

What I do know is this: there are many out there right now LTAO at me for NOT having lowered this engine a bit to make things easier!!!!!!! The threaded lines were easy to get to (albeit tight) and were assured sufficient torque so as NOT to leak...now that bottom rubber line is a peculiar one, as it has a hose clamp attachment with round head with a slot for a screwdriver...once this baby's rotated enough, one can line up a short flat tip screwdriver to ensure that she's tightened sufficiently...I SWORE I would replace that damned screw with a slotted one that would invite a simple nut driver (for ease of removal)...anywaze, I didn't,..yet she's tight. Tests, so far,...

Idling for a few minutes,...checking all fuel points that were TOUCHED for leaks,..found none.....

Take her up the road 2 miles, to get the tires' PSI's set (she's been sitting for ~2 weeks)...back home....RECHECK the fuel line points,..all being found BONE-DRY......

Wave to the precious Wife, throwing the sign meaning I'll be back in ~ 1 hour.....ran her nice and hard for ~ 30 minutes,...stopped and checked ALL of the fuel lines,..all still BONE-DRY...

Fired off another 30 minutes on some nice twisties,..and completed the FINAL check of ALL touched fuel connections....ALL IS BONE-DRY!!!!!! job (almost) done....need to get my pressure checks.

My body will pay for this AM's work....when will I learn? (well, today I did just that, albeit painfully). But I won't be paying the wrench to do it for ~$200 labor.....

Will get this old one autopsied soon,...

BEST to all!

Doyle

dshepp806

Just for the record, the removed (original) FPR (from my 1989) had a Manufacture stamp date of 52nd week of 1988...what a heavy, robust piece! I'm not sure if can (would) cut this thing up or not? (hehe).

BEST!

Doyle

scarceller

Doyle,

I did this job by removing the entire fuel rail with the regulator attached, I found this the simplest way to do this job. It allows you to remove and work on the bench.

dshepp806

Thanks,...so, you took the mounting bracket off, as well?

I would have felt a bit better had I had this assembly in front of me. No problems getting to the L & R side FPR fuel lines, nor worries with the vacuum connection up top,...BUT that lower fuel line connection (hose) HAS to be tight,..as does the 24 MM mounting nut ..maybe in the next lifetime, I'll try this approach,...

thanks, scarceller.

BEST!

Doyle

scarceller

Yes, much easier to loosen the 2 10mm screws on the mounting bracket then the entire assembly attached to the rail can be lifted up with lines still attached. This let's you clearly see what's going on since now you have everything up above the Intake. I learned this method after removing it the hard way once!

dshepp806

Roger that! I simply missed that bottom 2nd screw, now that I look at it,..what's (not-so) funny is that my son-in-law (Master Toyota Tech and [my] "part time Porsche Tech"!!!) noted this to me but only to say "I'd remove that damned bracket and get it on the bench,..that's,..if it were me".....I paid no attention apparently,..or simply just got lost in my work,..not studying the PET closely enough.

It's bad enough, visually, back there.......then to throw in my oversight (even after being told).....Had you're post been a few days earlier, I certainly would have reviewed closer and see that SECOND FRIKIN" BOLT on the mounting plate...but no,...I had to work w/ a frikin' CROWSFOOT, BLINDLY , AT THAT! (Trust me,..it's tight)......THEN ensure that hose clamp at the bottom of the FPR is tight , using a frikin' offset screwdriver (so as NOT to leak fuel on the HOT engine). what a true aggravation,...I am pissed (and ashamed!)

I can safely assume that this thread will definately save others time......yet the mechanic types will already KNOW what to do in these cases,....,..I'm just a lowly engineer, who fights his way through this kind of stuff,...........without question: doing it the difficult way,.....then, rx'g the epiphany is a GREAT WAY TO LEARN.....(yes,..others' mistakes or "shortcomings").

For sure, scarceller, only ONCE!!!!!!!!!!

Thank you, SIR!

BEST!

Doyle

scarceller

Doyle,

Don't feel bad I made same exact mistake first time I replaced a regulator!

911 Rod

Reviving an old thread because I'm in the garage changing my FPR and rather be online that ripping the crap out of my arms!

So removing the rail is the trick? I did get the side nuts off. Isn't the rail attached to one of these?

Looks to me there is a connection a couple of inches to the left of the bottom hose? Disconnect here?