Help to remove bearing dust cover 1986
05-10-2010, 06:19 PM
#1
Intermediate
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 32
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Help to remove bearing dust cover 1986
Hi,
I washed car and it must have took a while to dry especially the brake rotors. When I went to move car front pad had bonded to rotor. Once it free itself the brakes started to grab. When I inspected the rotors is see that a small amount of brake pad material is bonded to rotor. it needs to come off!
I'm stuck with HOW to remove front bearing dust cover. One in picture. While I'm looking at rotor how do I adjust the from bearings as they have a little play?
thanks
I washed car and it must have took a while to dry especially the brake rotors. When I went to move car front pad had bonded to rotor. Once it free itself the brakes started to grab. When I inspected the rotors is see that a small amount of brake pad material is bonded to rotor. it needs to come off!
I'm stuck with HOW to remove front bearing dust cover. One in picture. While I'm looking at rotor how do I adjust the from bearings as they have a little play?
thanks
05-10-2010, 06:29 PM
#3
Team Owner
No problem .. I had a similar issue .. lesson here is drive your car a few miles after washing.. I think if you just go drive it it will be fine.
However.
The bearing cover is the hardest part of the whole job. They do get jambed in good. I keep a 2 inch muffler clamp handy ( it may be 2 and half , don't remember ) . Put this on the the cap . it will tighten on and give your hammer something to whack at or pry on . I also have a large pair of locking pliers i use occasionally. some people use the " two hammer " method of jamming the claw of one hammer in and hitting it with the other. never works for me , but the muffler clamp works best if you have never done it . ( it is basically a "U" with a bar across it and 2 nuts .. works great .
The adjustment is pretty easy . I think it is a 4.5mm allen key to undo the outer clamp ( there is a cutout in the hub to get it in ) lossen off turn until you can barely move the thrust washer behind it with a screw driver ( without twisting ) tighten back up . Slap the cover back on ..
Done
However.
The bearing cover is the hardest part of the whole job. They do get jambed in good. I keep a 2 inch muffler clamp handy ( it may be 2 and half , don't remember ) . Put this on the the cap . it will tighten on and give your hammer something to whack at or pry on . I also have a large pair of locking pliers i use occasionally. some people use the " two hammer " method of jamming the claw of one hammer in and hitting it with the other. never works for me , but the muffler clamp works best if you have never done it . ( it is basically a "U" with a bar across it and 2 nuts .. works great .
The adjustment is pretty easy . I think it is a 4.5mm allen key to undo the outer clamp ( there is a cutout in the hub to get it in ) lossen off turn until you can barely move the thrust washer behind it with a screw driver ( without twisting ) tighten back up . Slap the cover back on ..
Done
05-10-2010, 06:57 PM
#5
Parts Specialist
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
man I thought I would have to cut the allen wrench down to fit in that tiny area... then the light came on about the cuttout - GOOD IDEA!
to the OP ... you have multiple ways of doing what you want... the wheel bearing dust cover can be removed by rapping it with a soft hammer and rotating and repeating - takes a while...but works and will not damage it 9or use a clamp like stated above
the brakes can be removed and cleaned by pulling the pins - litterally a 5 minute job but totally not needed as the 996 guys always get rusty rotors and the cure is to simply drive the car
so an even easier way to avoid it is to stop using the hose to wash your car - I stopped and it wonderful! do a search for ONR (optimum no rinse) car wash and use the 2 bucket method... NO HOSE... you can wash your car in the garage in the winter too
or on a hot day inside the garage
to the OP ... you have multiple ways of doing what you want... the wheel bearing dust cover can be removed by rapping it with a soft hammer and rotating and repeating - takes a while...but works and will not damage it 9or use a clamp like stated above
the brakes can be removed and cleaned by pulling the pins - litterally a 5 minute job but totally not needed as the 996 guys always get rusty rotors and the cure is to simply drive the car
so an even easier way to avoid it is to stop using the hose to wash your car - I stopped and it wonderful! do a search for ONR (optimum no rinse) car wash and use the 2 bucket method... NO HOSE... you can wash your car in the garage in the winter too
or on a hot day inside the garage
05-10-2010, 08:08 PM
#6
uninformed gas bag
(contemplating on whether gas bag is one or two words)
Rennlist Member
(contemplating on whether gas bag is one or two words)
Rennlist Member
No problem .. I had a similar issue .. lesson here is drive your car a few miles after washing.. I think if you just go drive it it will be fine.
However.
The bearing cover is the hardest part of the whole job. They do get jambed in good. I keep a 2 inch muffler clamp handy ( it may be 2 and half , don't remember ) . Put this on the the cap . it will tighten on and give your hammer something to whack at or pry on . I also have a large pair of locking pliers i use occasionally. some people use the " two hammer " method of jamming the claw of one hammer in and hitting it with the other. never works for me , but the muffler clamp works best if you have never done it . ( it is basically a "U" with a bar across it and 2 nuts .. works great .
The adjustment is pretty easy . I think it is a 4.5mm allen key to undo the outer clamp ( there is a cutout in the hub to get it in ) lossen off turn until you can barely move the thrust washer behind it with a screw driver ( without twisting ) tighten back up . Slap the cover back on ..
Done
However.
The bearing cover is the hardest part of the whole job. They do get jambed in good. I keep a 2 inch muffler clamp handy ( it may be 2 and half , don't remember ) . Put this on the the cap . it will tighten on and give your hammer something to whack at or pry on . I also have a large pair of locking pliers i use occasionally. some people use the " two hammer " method of jamming the claw of one hammer in and hitting it with the other. never works for me , but the muffler clamp works best if you have never done it . ( it is basically a "U" with a bar across it and 2 nuts .. works great .
The adjustment is pretty easy . I think it is a 4.5mm allen key to undo the outer clamp ( there is a cutout in the hub to get it in ) lossen off turn until you can barely move the thrust washer behind it with a screw driver ( without twisting ) tighten back up . Slap the cover back on ..
Done
05-11-2010, 07:46 PM
#7
Intermediate
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 32
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Thanks for all the great tips. i was having so much trouble with dust cover that I reattached the hub and the rotor, easier than I thought. then did the cleaning of rotor with caliber removed. it worked perfect, the brake was gripping to violently to just run until the pad material wore off of rotor and it might have destroyed the pad itself. I will need to tackle the bearing but I'll keep that for another day.
Trending Topics
05-11-2010, 08:46 PM
#8
I haddah Google dat
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Let's see if this link works:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/2976240-post15.html
It's the tool I made to remove the dust caps.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/2976240-post15.html
It's the tool I made to remove the dust caps.
05-12-2010, 12:57 AM
#9
Rennlist Member
I'll respectfully submit that there are no absolutes on 20+ year old cars. What works on one, may not on another. This applies to bearing caps, exhaust nuts/studs, etc. Mine would not budge until I tried the 2" muffler clamp method, it is indeed 2". If I'd learned of it sooner, I'd have saved hours of my life being wasted.
