KILRWAIL

This may be helpful to new owners of older 911’s, who have never owned a Porsche before. I still consider myself a newbie, although I’ve had my car for four years. The body and paint on my 1977 car were very good but I knew that there would be mechanical issues – and I was right. Here’s a list of things I’ve needed to repair, at least some of which are worth checking in your new acquisition. I have not included numerous cosmetic jobs or major engine/transmission issues. If you’re reasonably handy, you can and should do all of these yourself – but don’t be afraid to ask for help and advice! They are more or less in priority sequence.

1. Change oil and filter, using Mahle OC 54 filter and ZDDP-rich oil. Drain both the crankcase and oil tank, replace crush washers on drain plugs, check oil level with dipstick when engine is warm and running. Do not rely on the oil level gauge.
2. Do compression and leak-down tests. Check and adjust timing. Check and replace spark plugs as required.
3. Have an oxygen sensor bung welded into a header, to allow checking of air/fuel ratio. Must avoid overly lean condition, especially with old CIS systems.
4. Install pop-off valve in CIS air box if not present already.
5. Check all wheel bearing for free play. Adjust fronts as required.
6. Check condition of brake pads and brake lines at callipers. Replace as required.
7. Inspect and replace brake rotors as required.
8. Rebuild brake callipers if indicated by any pulling to one side.
9. Replace brake fluid if older than 6 months, especially if track usage is planned.
10. Check and tighten as required all suspension nuts and bolts.
11. Check and tighten all CV joint cap screws. Restore or replace CV joints as required.
12. Inspect and replace any dried out or cracked fuel lines.
13. Replace transmission fluid once per year.
14. Upgrade timing chain tensioners to hydraulic (Carrera) type as required.
15. Replace leaking oil return tube(s).
16. Obtain replacement alternator belt and clutch cable if history unknown. Replace as required.
17. Adjust valve clearances, replacing gaskets and nuts in the process. Ensure valve cover mounting surfaces are flat, by testing on thick glass surface. Flatten as required with coarse sandpaper on glass.
18. Upgrade oil screen at crankcase drain to reduce cavitation.
19. Replace rubber sleeves connecting intake manifolds to CIS if dried out or cracked.
20. Inspect hand brake shoes; replace as required; adjust clearance and cable tension.
21. Check for oil leak at front of transmission, where shift rod enters. Replace seal as required.
22. If shift linkage is sloppy, check adjustment behind front seats and replace two bushings under shifter as required.
23. Inspect and replace anti-roll bar bushings if rubber is worn out.
24. Check for oil leaks at oil tank. Watch for leakage under welded brackets where upper mounting studs are located.
25. If insufficient oil cooling is suspected, have external oil cooler cleaned and flushed. Likewise small cooler on top of engine, if engine is out of car.
26. Learn how to adjust all the pedals for comfortable heel-and-toe work and clutch operation. Clean any debris from around the pedals and make sure the throttle lever is not binding on the clutch cable.
27. Ensure electric adjustment for mirrors works properly and repair if needed.
28. Check free operation of heater control boxes and replace boxes, actuating wires and hoses as required.

laundromatt

very helpful, thanks. which ZDDP-rich oil do you personally use?

KILRWAIL

I use Brad Penn 20W-50 (formerly Kendall GT). It's one of the few still available and I have a convenient source. Remember, you'll need a case of 12 for each change and these engines do consume oil, depending on their condition.

rusnak

I didn't know that Kendall GT is the same as BP.

ivangene

me either... I have always like the Kendall, IIRC the 20/50 was a green color...thats the stuff I used in my old car. The BP is more "oil" colored but I am glad to hear this...

User 4221

FWIW, I just replaced the gearbox oil with Mobil-1 Delvac 75W-90 in my G50 and it made a significant difference in shifting both cold and warm.

ivangene

in mine right now is Swepco 201

in the 996 I had Swepco 210 which was a huge improvement... can the 210 be ran in the 915 box?

I might try Delvac next time!

theiceman

no synthetics in a 915.. the swepco is perfect for that gearbox .. but once a year ? wow .. I do mine every 5 or so . But it is an occasional use summer only car. Brake fluid every 2 and I would never put a pop of in my car .... just my 2 cents but a good list all the same and I did something silmilar with my car.

ivangene

Thanks Ice

KILRWAIL

Brad Penn is green.

GothingNC

Great list

A few more items:

Check the age of the tires and dry rot.

Dash light fuse install

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsc...tallation.html

Distributor Service
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsc...nion-gear.html


John

ked

"I didn't know that Kendall GT is the same as BP."
very funny...
for everyone else, spend a few hours reading this thread...
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsc...4-sm-oils.html

short correction is that when conoco-phillips bought the kendall brand, they divested the refinery where the "good ole green stuff (GT-1)" was made (they still sell an oil named Kendall GT1, but it ain't the same oil inside)... a mgmt / investment group bought that facility & continued producing the "old-school" (still green) oil we knew & (many) loved. they kept the ZDDP formulation and added a synthetic component (10% iirc). here's their site...
http://www.bradpennracing.com/Default.aspx
{I see they blend a 15W-40 grade now - very popular w/ the 616 motor guys who used to use Rotella}

theiceman

I use both as i pass through Bradford Pennsylvania once a year and pik some up . In the summer I use the the 20w50 and in the fall I use the 15w40 as the temp drops. Both good oils but i notice the 15w40 isn't green like the 20w50.

laundromatt

i'm surprised so many people on here (and elsewhere) use non-synthetic engine oil in their porsches. my car's previous owner only used synthetic (mobil 1). should i contemplate switching? the car does not leak any oil at all right now, and i'm hesitant to do anything that might change that.

there's a shop that i'm considering to do a thorough inspection of my car, and they only use motul for their oils. anyone know anything about it? it seems a bit pricey, and searching here and at pelicanparts haven't turned up much.

theiceman

motul is a very good product .. if you can afford it ..
synthetic vs mineral is an age old arguement. I can't speak for everyone but my car was not designed with synthetic in mind , also i have non hydraulic lifters so wear is a real issue ( read zddp ) . Also i do not need long change intervals. i change every 5 K so I don't really need the " benefits" of synthetic.

Just my 2c though .. B.P, has a synthetic content .. so be it, but i don't buy becasue of it ..