Bilstein Sport shocks for Boge struts and new rears
09-04-2006, 12:13 PM
#1
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Bilstein Sport shocks for Boge struts and new rears
A couple questions:
1) My new front inserts are green but the rear shocks are yellow. I've read elsewhere that the sport shocks are yellow. Did the source send me the correct front inserts?
2) Bentley says to remove strut for front insert replacement but other instructions say to just remove upper nut and compress old insert to rotate and remove. That makes sense but can I actually compress the new gas shock to fit it back under the fender? They seem far too stiff to do that.
3) It appears that a lot of stuff needs to be removed to get to the right side rear shock nut. How far do I need to go in removing stuff? Bentley says that the lower airbox may need to go which seems like a very big job.
If I do indeed need to take the suspension apart, I'm seeking opinions on whether I should go ahead with the more advanced suspension upgrades referred to in other posts. I like quality handling and don't mind a stiffer ride but I don't expect to race or do DE schools. The shocks are shot and the ride isn't enjoyable at all right now.
1) My new front inserts are green but the rear shocks are yellow. I've read elsewhere that the sport shocks are yellow. Did the source send me the correct front inserts?
2) Bentley says to remove strut for front insert replacement but other instructions say to just remove upper nut and compress old insert to rotate and remove. That makes sense but can I actually compress the new gas shock to fit it back under the fender? They seem far too stiff to do that.
3) It appears that a lot of stuff needs to be removed to get to the right side rear shock nut. How far do I need to go in removing stuff? Bentley says that the lower airbox may need to go which seems like a very big job.
If I do indeed need to take the suspension apart, I'm seeking opinions on whether I should go ahead with the more advanced suspension upgrades referred to in other posts. I like quality handling and don't mind a stiffer ride but I don't expect to race or do DE schools. The shocks are shot and the ride isn't enjoyable at all right now.
09-04-2006, 12:28 PM
#2
Team Owner
1) No the front inserts are in fact green for sports as well as HD , the part number is what is different. Mine were green also. so no worries there. The backs should be in fact yellow and they are so no problems.
2) no problem compressing the old hydraulic boge, once it gets started it will go. TIP. cover the underside edge of your fender lip with paint maskers tape ( low tac ) and then with duct tape to protect the paint. ater you get the shock compressed and the dust cover and spacer out , it will swing out but will stress your brake line so be carefull.
3) I took nothing off. but be prepared to work by feel and not by sight. Some shocks are held with a centre allen key in the shaft., others by two flats on the end of the shaft that can be held with vice grips. TIP. by yourself a closed ended ratchet wrench ( I think 17mm is the size but double check. )You will be glad you did as you can just swing it back and forth. I did remember jamming an oil line out of the way but nothing serious.
Doing the shocks is actually very simple. I had the whole thing done in a half a day. I would suggest doing this first and see where you are.
TIP : remove oil from housing holding front srut with syringe BEFORE dropping in new insert.
good luck.
2) no problem compressing the old hydraulic boge, once it gets started it will go. TIP. cover the underside edge of your fender lip with paint maskers tape ( low tac ) and then with duct tape to protect the paint. ater you get the shock compressed and the dust cover and spacer out , it will swing out but will stress your brake line so be carefull.
3) I took nothing off. but be prepared to work by feel and not by sight. Some shocks are held with a centre allen key in the shaft., others by two flats on the end of the shaft that can be held with vice grips. TIP. by yourself a closed ended ratchet wrench ( I think 17mm is the size but double check. )You will be glad you did as you can just swing it back and forth. I did remember jamming an oil line out of the way but nothing serious.
Doing the shocks is actually very simple. I had the whole thing done in a half a day. I would suggest doing this first and see where you are.
TIP : remove oil from housing holding front srut with syringe BEFORE dropping in new insert.
good luck.
09-09-2006, 07:42 PM
#3
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Off to an OK start but I've got a glitch
I replaced the right rear shock first because the upper shaft and nut were pretty hard to see so I thought it would be the toughest. Turns out my long skinny arm could reach in behind the airbox and I had no problem at all getting it loosened and tightened using one of those nice fully adjustable Craftsman ratchet wrenches. I wondered if I was being extravagant buying those but now I see why I "needed" them. The lower bolt wasn't too bad either. One down, three to go.
On to the left side. The upper nut is much easier to get to and it came loose just fine, but the lower one WILL NOT BUDGE
. I used a 1/2" drive 18" breaker bar and it won't move at all. I can see the bar stress pretty badly as I lay into it. It should have been torqued at about 130 NM I've used PB Blaster and no dice. I think there's a chance someone used an air wrench to tighten this puppy. I've read in Rennlist about cheater bars ... where do I source one and how much more stress can I put on this without breaking stuff?! I don't have any air equipment myself.
On to the left side. The upper nut is much easier to get to and it came loose just fine, but the lower one WILL NOT BUDGE
. I used a 1/2" drive 18" breaker bar and it won't move at all. I can see the bar stress pretty badly as I lay into it. It should have been torqued at about 130 NM I've used PB Blaster and no dice. I think there's a chance someone used an air wrench to tighten this puppy. I've read in Rennlist about cheater bars ... where do I source one and how much more stress can I put on this without breaking stuff?! I don't have any air equipment myself.
09-09-2006, 10:31 PM
#4
Race Director
Cheater bar is just something like a pipe over the end of your breaker bar to add more leverage, say 2 or 3 ft long pipe.
On mine I put the socket and breaker bar on the bolt and used the jack to lift the breaker bar, worked fine for me on both bolts. I found that BP Blaster gouldn't get into the bolt threads.
Don't be afraid to take off the air filter housing in the future, it's very easy.
On mine I put the socket and breaker bar on the bolt and used the jack to lift the breaker bar, worked fine for me on both bolts. I found that BP Blaster gouldn't get into the bolt threads.
Don't be afraid to take off the air filter housing in the future, it's very easy.
09-10-2006, 12:22 AM
#5
Team Owner
Also a little heat gors a long way. I think the answer lies in all these suggestions. i never had much problem with the uppoer shock nuts either, but some guys sure did..sounds like you are pat the worst of it.
09-10-2006, 01:05 AM
#6
I have a sears jack that comes with a long hollow handle on it that can be removed. It works as a great 3 foot breaker bar. That bolt is an M13.1 or something like that, so it is very strong and unlikely that you can break it. From the left side you would pull down on the breaker bar (lefty loosey).
09-10-2006, 12:52 PM
#7
Rennlist Member
I suggest that you get the appropriate socket and an impact wrench to help get it off. Mine wes stuck and that's how it came off. You have to work at it, but it will come off.
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09-11-2006, 06:42 PM
#8
Racer
By the way, Boge is phasing out green but they told me last month that some shocks are still being painted green and some yellow for some reason, but the P/N is what counts.
09-12-2006, 08:39 AM
#12
Team Owner
yep you got it .. they actually want you to read the numbers ...
Kind of like US money ..
why you guys don't make different denominations different colours I'll never know ...
Kind of like US money ..
why you guys don't make different denominations different colours I'll never know ...
09-12-2006, 01:24 PM
#14
Racer
It's all part of the unwritten, often unknown and usually misunderstood process by which a Porsche owner must find the hidden answer to the three confusing and initially impossible things about each and every part and procedure on the car before becoming an adept. One cannot ask the other true adepts for guidance because the visiting restrictions at the sanitariums are so prohibitive...