New Centerlock Specs/Torque For Track Use. **Read This**
09-16-2010, 08:05 PM
#1
Drifting
Thread Starter
New Centerlock Specs/Torque For Track Use. **Read This**
Call your internal surgeon and make an appointment, in the meantime get the hernia truss out of the closet 
1. For track use centerlock torque is now 600nm/444 ftlb
2. Special greasing procedures must be used.
3. Wheels must be off the ground when being torqued (call for help!)
4. Three step tightening procedure.
5. Center locking spline must be correctly engaged.
See bulletin below.
I am seeing a centerlock to 5 lug conversion kit as a fine niche aftermarket item. Who is going to step up?
1. For track use centerlock torque is now 600nm/444 ftlb
2. Special greasing procedures must be used.
3. Wheels must be off the ground when being torqued (call for help!)
4. Three step tightening procedure.
5. Center locking spline must be correctly engaged.
See bulletin below.
I am seeing a centerlock to 5 lug conversion kit as a fine niche aftermarket item. Who is going to step up?
09-16-2010, 08:12 PM
#2
this centerlock wheel has only been a pain the **** for me
09-16-2010, 08:58 PM
#4
This is crazy !
What about autocrossing and regular street driving ?
They must had a problem with a wheel on a customer car.....
Can't I jack up the car and change one wheel at a time.....do I need a FREAKIN lift to install the wheels WTF ?
I can see having someone apply the brakes when torquing the wheels no problem.
Thoughts ?
What about autocrossing and regular street driving ?
They must had a problem with a wheel on a customer car.....
Can't I jack up the car and change one wheel at a time.....do I need a FREAKIN lift to install the wheels WTF ?
I can see having someone apply the brakes when torquing the wheels no problem.
Thoughts ?
09-16-2010, 09:15 PM
#6
Drifting
Thread Starter
Jack it, brake it, torque it, break it, remove it. Then grease it, brake it, torque it, drop it.
No torqueing unless you are jacked.
Use braking to achieve breaking and torqueing.
Use grease!
Check your splines!
So simple!
No torqueing unless you are jacked.
Use braking to achieve breaking and torqueing.
Use grease!
Check your splines!
So simple!
09-16-2010, 09:37 PM
#7
Nordschleife Master
If I understand it right, you need 2 people to torque a front wheel.
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09-16-2010, 09:59 PM
#8
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I have to say that the CL wheel for a street car was a horrible idea. I thought it was really neat when I first had it, but it is seriously a limitation and liability for owners. There is a reason why the 599XX --> 599GTO dropped the CL wheels. They look great, but give me a break...or brake...or someone stepping on the brakes while I sweat like a pig to get it off.
09-16-2010, 10:06 PM
#10
Rennlist Member
Jack it, brake it, torque it, break it, remove it. Then grease it, brake it, torque it, drop it.
No torqueing unless you are jacked.
Use braking to achieve breaking and torqueing.
Use grease!
Check your splines!
So simple!
No torqueing unless you are jacked.
Use braking to achieve breaking and torqueing.
Use grease!
Check your splines!
So simple!
You mean;
Jack it, remove cap, break it, remove bolt, re-assemble the nut that fell apart in your hand, check there are different levels of grease in different places, replace wheel, put nut back on, torque it, check splines, put cap on, drop it.
Repeat other side.
I didn't mind all of this, but now I worry about it or need my garden gnome to hold down the brake pedal, or should I say break pedal??
09-16-2010, 10:26 PM
#11
Drifting
Thread Starter
Yeppers. OR a rear wheel. 444 ft lbs will easily overcome the parking brake and turn the engine over if in any gear.
Agreed
Yeah! haha 
The CL's are turning out to be a monumental PITA
I have to say that the CL wheel for a street car was a horrible idea. I thought it was really neat when I first had it, but it is seriously a limitation and liability for owners. There is a reason why the 599XX --> 599GTO dropped the CL wheels. They look great, but give me a break...or brake...or someone stepping on the brakes while I sweat like a pig to get it off.
Ohh, why did you not say so in the first place?
You mean;
Jack it, remove cap, break it, remove bolt, re-assemble the nut that fell apart in your hand, check there are different levels of grease in different places, replace wheel, put nut back on, torque it, check splines, put cap on, drop it.
Repeat other side.
I didn't mind all of this, but now I worry about it or need my garden gnome to hold down the brake pedal, or should I say break pedal??
You mean;
Jack it, remove cap, break it, remove bolt, re-assemble the nut that fell apart in your hand, check there are different levels of grease in different places, replace wheel, put nut back on, torque it, check splines, put cap on, drop it.
Repeat other side.
I didn't mind all of this, but now I worry about it or need my garden gnome to hold down the brake pedal, or should I say break pedal??
The CL's are turning out to be a monumental PITA
09-16-2010, 11:07 PM
#15
Contrarian dissenting from the lynching mob:
I just swapped a set of wheels (four off, four on) ... it was painless and took 40 minutes in the paddock. Putting a CL on is easier than alignment of a five slug when you're trying to avoid those precious ceramics.
Now, this extra torque -- that's interesting. Sounds like the clever flange on the nut is not so clever after all.
I torqued the rears off the ground to 500nm with just a moderate application of the hand brake and in neutral. The fronts were on the ground.
I guess I can fabricate a brace to "capture" the torque reaction arm of the torque multiplier.
Better yet, Mr Porsche should just give every CL car owner a free tool to perform these miraculous torquing procedures.
What I'll add of note today are two things:
* When I removed the dust cap from the right rear wheel, it "puffed" as though it had compressed air behind it. Not great if the diff is somehow pressurizing and that pressure is coming through the drive shaft.
* The right rear wheel locking spline was engaged and jammed. I had to tap the central lock nut socket with my hand to get it to disengage the locking splines.
I'd suggest a "habit" of tapping the locking spline shaft in and out once the nut is secure to be sure it has engaged. So far, I haven't had it fail to engage. After this change in procedure, I'll certainly be checking them all before the next track day.
I just swapped a set of wheels (four off, four on) ... it was painless and took 40 minutes in the paddock. Putting a CL on is easier than alignment of a five slug when you're trying to avoid those precious ceramics.
Now, this extra torque -- that's interesting. Sounds like the clever flange on the nut is not so clever after all.
I torqued the rears off the ground to 500nm with just a moderate application of the hand brake and in neutral. The fronts were on the ground.
I guess I can fabricate a brace to "capture" the torque reaction arm of the torque multiplier.
Better yet, Mr Porsche should just give every CL car owner a free tool to perform these miraculous torquing procedures.
What I'll add of note today are two things:
* When I removed the dust cap from the right rear wheel, it "puffed" as though it had compressed air behind it. Not great if the diff is somehow pressurizing and that pressure is coming through the drive shaft.
* The right rear wheel locking spline was engaged and jammed. I had to tap the central lock nut socket with my hand to get it to disengage the locking splines.
I'd suggest a "habit" of tapping the locking spline shaft in and out once the nut is secure to be sure it has engaged. So far, I haven't had it fail to engage. After this change in procedure, I'll certainly be checking them all before the next track day.
